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Buster Wants To Win.


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This Question & Answer session is a little different from those featured before. Where as previously we have looked to winning lofts for details of how and what etc,, this time we are asking site member Buster 151 how and what he does, Steve has bravely come forward in the hope that some of our champion fliers on site can guide him to success, something that has eluded him. please be sympathetic and not too hard on the lad , he,s just looking for some guidance and tips as how to achieve some results .

 

1 / Steve , how long have you kept racing pigeons ?

 

 

2/ what families of birds do you keep ?

 

3/ what distances do you fly ,start to finish in your club/fed.?

 

4/ what systems do you fly , old & young ?

 

5/ tell us about your loft , closed in , avairy attached , dowel fronts, doors or sputniks , and any problems with it ??

 

6 / what feed do you use regularly for, breeding , racing, old & young birds. also what supplements if any ?

 

7/ any type of medication given ,whatever it maybe ?

 

8/ do you have a routine at all ?

 

9/ what in your opinion is holding you back from achieving wins when racing ??

 

lastly , thank you for taking the time and trouble to answer the above questions ( more may follow :emoticon-0136-giggle: ). my hope is that we will get some constructive replies to your details Steve , and that will hopefully help you win a card or 2 , maybe more in the coming seasons :animatedpigeons:

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Hi Andy and Thank You for the opportunity

 

1 Steve , how long have you kept racing pigeons

 

I got my first birds in 2011 and started racing with the young in 2012

 

 

2 what families of birds do you keep ?

 

I have a variety of strains, Marcellis, Janssen, Beveredam, Staff Van Reet,and Jan Aarden are the main ones

but I do have some other strains

 

 

3 what distances do you fly ,start to finish in your club/fed.?

 

First race is Bath around 83 miles and last is Messac around 330 miles

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4/ what systems do you fly , old & young ?

 

I fly natural for both old and young on open door

 

5/ tell us about your loft , closed in , avairy attached , dowel fronts, doors or sputniks , and any problems with it ??

 

My loft is a standard 18 x 6 feet 3 section, air vent at bottom of each section, dowel trap at top of each section, sliding outer doors with glass panels for windows in door and each section, one section has a 4x4 aviary attached as these birds dont fly out

the only problem Im aware of with it is this time of year I just cant keep the floor dry no matter what I try, have covered bottom vents over so the only air going in is from the 2 inch gap at front and back top,

but still makes no difference

 

6 / what feed do you use regularly for, breeding , racing, old & young birds. also what supplements if any ?

 

I use an all rounder all year normally, but this year I tried a widowhood during racing in my opinion made no difference at all

The only supplements I add are multi vits in water about once per month for 2 or 3 days mainly for prisoners but all get it

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7/ any type of medication given ,whatever it maybe ?

 

PMV/POX vaccination and worm all birds before racing starts, I dont normally give anything else, excepting a Spartrix if any night out

 

I do use Naturaline and Orego Stim in water on regular basis, and occassionally Apple Cider Vinegar

 

8/ do you have a routine at all ?

 

Summer time Birds are all scraped twice daily then race team out for exercise and bath mornings only, I only let them out when Im out with them as like most people we have plenty bop here also plenty of cats, all birds fed twice daily no rations they eat what they want, I have found if when I go in loft and there is say a handfull of seed in trough they seem to fly much better and longer than when its empty

 

Winter usually scrape out once a day still fed twice daily as much as they want again

 

Once a month I give what I call a deep clean where all loft is scrubbed top to bottom including perches then either blow torch dry or left to dry naturally depends on weather then sprayed with Smite

 

Stardrops disinfectant is sprayed all over every other week

 

Diamataceous earth is put in all boxes, over perches and in all corners weekly

 

9/ what in your opinion is holding you back from achieving wins when racing ??

 

Must say it has to be myself, as even though I know, lets say basics, I dont know how to put it all into practice as a system, so that I can be competitive in the races, i.e feeding etc

 

 

Andy Thank You for allowing me to participate in this Q&A

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Just browsing over Steve's replies to your questions Andy, just wondering how far off the ground is his loft as this maybe one of the reasons for the dampness problems if it is too close to the ground especially at this time of the year. Blocking up vents can also lead to further problems within the loft and affect the birds health.

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Steve you have now been keeping the birds for 4 years now, have you sought any help or advice from the more successful fanciers in your club or local area and get any feedback. Most of us start the season with some sort of plan or goal, what do you see as your goal apart from obviously winning but what distance are you looking at with your birds, sprint, middle or long. If you let members know I sure you'll get a lot more help and advice from our more experienced members on here. :)

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Main points for me are the problem with the wet floor. This has to be sorted. Could be proximity to the ground or some other reason, but it has to be remedied.

Feeding - possibly too much. Most in winter feed only once a day due to time constraints. I have no objection to feed being available at all times, if that is what he wants, but I think a hopper feeding expert needs to advise. Usually only one type of feed, beans, barley or pellets are left in the hoppers, I think. :)

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I can see a few things that may be of interest from these answers, but most importantly is the type of racing, with the maximum being only 330 miles, to me this would be classed as an out and out sprint programme. So id advice Buster, to specialise in birds that are bred to compete at these distances. Knowing the midlands also there are many aces of the widowhood system there, much like london and essex, and those still racing natural 99% of the time get left behind until the distances go over 400 miles. How does buster race his young birds natural or darkness?

 

The loft may be a problem also, id advise to buy a simple humidity monitor, and place some salt in a pot overnight, somewhere where the birds cannot get to it... and if the salt doesnt come out of the pot the same way/consistency then their is a humidity issue, which i suspect. would it be possible to put up some photos of the loft?

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Guest johnhunter

I can see a few things that may be of interest from these answers, but most importantly is the type of racing, with the maximum being only 330 miles, to me this would be classed as an out and out sprint programme. So id advice Buster, to specialise in birds that are bred to compete at these distances. Knowing the midlands also there are many aces of the widowhood system there, much like london and essex, and those still racing natural 99% of the time get left behind until the distances go over 400 miles. How does buster race his young birds natural or darkness?

 

The loft may be a problem also, id advise to buy a simple humidity monitor, and place some salt in a pot overnight, somewhere where the birds cannot get to it... and if the salt doesnt come out of the pot the same way/consistency then their is a humidity issue, which i suspect. would it be possible to put up some photos of the loft?

wiley I would guarantee you that 9 out of ten lofts would not pass the salt test that you advised the guy to do

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Guest johnhunter

To be fair only about 10% of lofts are capable of winning or in other terms it's always the same 10% of guys winning

the reason being George they have good pigeons,i have been in lofts in the winter and there was ice all down the walls, come the racing time they were top flyers

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the reason being George they have good pigeons,i have been in lofts in the winter and there was ice all down the walls, come the racing time they were top flyers

Winter is completely different from racing season..... I wintered my hens in a loft opened fronted...come racing season they won't be there

 

Good doos are only part of the reason they win imo....plenty guys with the best cant win diddly squat lol

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Just browsing over Steve's replies to your questions Andy, just wondering how far off the ground is his loft as this maybe one of the reasons for the dampness problems if it is too close to the ground especially at this time of the year. Blocking up vents can also lead to further problems within the loft and affect the birds health.

The loft is around a foot off the ground at one end and about4 inches the other, I blocked the vents advice from another flyer, who said there may be to much air coming through causing the wetness

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Steve you have now been keeping the birds for 4 years now, have you sought any help or advice from the more successful fanciers in your club or local area and get any feedback. Most of us start the season with some sort of plan or goal, what do you see as your goal apart from obviously winning but what distance are you looking at with your birds, sprint, middle or long. If you let members know I sure you'll get a lot more help and advice from our more experienced members on here. :)

Pat I'm not in any of the club clicks yet so people dont tend to speak except to say hello, I would like to compete at all distances

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I can see a few things that may be of interest from these answers, but most importantly is the type of racing, with the maximum being only 330 miles, to me this would be classed as an out and out sprint programme. So id advice Buster, to specialise in birds that are bred to compete at these distances. Knowing the midlands also there are many aces of the widowhood system there, much like london and essex, and those still racing natural 99% of the time get left behind until the distances go over 400 miles. How does buster race his young birds natural or darkness?

 

The loft may be a problem also, id advise to buy a simple humidity monitor, and place some salt in a pot overnight, somewhere where the birds cannot get to it... and if the salt doesnt come out of the pot the same way/consistency then their is a humidity issue, which i suspect. would it be possible to put up some photos of the loft?

The young get raced same as old natural, I have put a humidity monitor in and its usually off the clock this time of year, even in summer sometimes its high as in +70ish

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Reading your answers, it's not through lack of effort on your part but after only a few years in the sport and racing natural in a hotbed of widowhood flyers you will find it hard work. The position of your loft maybe the cause of the dampness ie is it in the shade?,is there plenty of light getting in? etc.Looking forward to seeing some good advice from Basic members on your feeding and your training methods.atb.

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Reading your answers, it's not through lack of effort on your part but after only a few years in the sport and racing natural in a hotbed of widowhood flyers you will find it hard work. The position of your loft maybe the cause of the dampness ie is it in the shade?,is there plenty of light getting in? etc.Looking forward to seeing some good advice from Basic members on your feeding and your training methods.atb.

 

 

The loft is in the open and in full light/sun all day

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first the wet floor if rain is not blowing in and causing the problem id remove one plank the full lenth of the front of the loft about 10 to 12 inch from the floor fit small gage wire and replace the plank at an angle to keep the rain out so you have a steady air flow across the floor blowing up the wall and out the back and roof you could also try a few bags of spill dry or similar and spread it under the loft incase the dampness is coming from below the floor and is being drawn up into the floor

two cut back the feeding fat birds dont win and do not want to fly give them a wee pick before you let them out if you wish then there main feed when they come in or later there should be no feed left in trays unless feeding youngsters the birds should always be looking for food imo make them eat what you want not what they want like kids they will always choose the sweets to eat first and waste the rest so you must control the feed

three you have not spoke of how much training you do if your birds are not flying two hours a day from a least six weeks before and during racing you have to get them down the road training 20 to 30 miles a day three days a week or have 20 tosses before the first race from the direction you want them to come

three watch your pigeons and motivate them by giving them what they want then taking them away from it whether it be a mate a box eggs or youngster find what each bird races best to and play on it but all this will mean nothing if the birds are fat unfit and unhealthy jmo for what its worth good luck with it and keep trying your win will come if you do your bit no one said it was easy atb

Edited by walterboswell59
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Walter how would the plank work with the fixed vents already in place, would I need to cover them?

They do fly over 1 hour mornings and about an hour afternoon when let out twice daily, training is started at 20 miles on there own 5/6 tosses then on the training truck twice a week around 35 miles, as I race midweek as well, and dont train basketting days

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