Tony C

A veiw over the sixth

It should be fine, If you hear it constantly squeaking you'll know its not.

In the main the better condition they come into the more self motivated they become.

Yes FrankDooman, of the top of my head I think its a two day course.

Would put them on roundabout after the first race FrankDooman if it was the longer races he was after. I was just trying to highlight that it would be a tough ask for him to hold their form for that long as he is new to the system.

To keep a team on song through say 12 weeks of racing is a hard task especialy if this is your first year flying this system. Take a look at your race program and mark of the races you'd like to do well in, if they're the later races I'd pair up and have them sitting for the first race and send them in that condition then split them after that race. If you want the earlier races pair up by the coming weekend.

Is your team made up of mainly yearlings?

Did you split them before the hens laid again?

Have they sat their second round of eggs?

It is best you let them bring up a pair of youngsters then let them sit eggs again for around 8 days before you split them.

Are you asking when is the best time to split them prior to racing?

Pluto! Always said mine seem to disappear of the face of the Earth

Check out and see if your friend is using black nestfelts, is so this could be the cause.

http://www.greatweather.co.uk/ http://www.metcheck.com/V40/UK/HOME/ http://www.meteox.com/h.aspx?r=&jaar=-3&soort=loop1uur http://www.weatherpigeon.co.uk/1151.html This last one you can find charts 10 days ahead http://www.westwind.ch/?para=*&area=United+Kingd.&txt=Search

Its the pigeons body clock your dealing with, all down to hormones or whatyoucallems, something gets triggered of when sitting around the 12 day mark no matter if they’re sitting pot eggs or real eggs.

And the winning title is ?????????

I race the Braille system........ I just do what feels right at the time

Receiving you loud and clear..... over. Welcome

Its generally considered that sitting eggs on their second nest triggers of the throwing of their first flights. By taking the hen away ensures the cocks will chuck in their eggs before this happens.

I would suspect Coccidiosis at that age.

I give it to them in their drinker. The water I use is bottled water with no chlorine, a small pot of yoghurt to 2 litres of this water. I hold back the water for 15 minutes after feeding then give it to them, they’ll dive in and take a good drink then. You need to give yoghurt after times of stress or during a period when they look of colour and could be fighting something and after any sort of treatment.

I've always wondered if pigeons that are hopper fed beans come into better condition or hold their condition better in the race basket by the simple fact that they are being fed a higher carb diet (in the basket) to what they're accustomed to, also do they tend to eat more in the basket having a varied diet now in front of them. :-/

A question for not only asha but anyone else that may hopper feed beans. Why is this feeding regime so good for the distance?

Fanciers in Belgium & Holland wouldn’t batter an eyelid if it were y/b/s, sounds to me as if its something much more sinister for them to make a noise about it. Something else for us to contend with, another nail in the coffin!

If they're healthy and ranging you can start training them of at 12-14 weeks of age.