Tony C

Ah well! I'll just have to kennel the Huskies back up

The most effective way to give this is to syringe it into their mouth on an empty crop. If given on food or via the drinker the tap water used must have been allowed to stand for at least 24hrs for the chlorine in said water to dissipate.

running the anti-virus............ or is it a cat scan?

I would only use the heaters if sub zero temperatures around the time of them laying their first egg.

Only the show pigeons cancelled as far as I can make out. http://www.pigeon-chat.com/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=48451

Thought me screen had frozen................ poxy weather

Whilst were on the subject of Man U, Wayne Rooney's new contract has been leaked...........

Did it hatch out of a Cadburys Cream Egg

The birds love it......... my pocket doesn't. I mix it 50/50 with mixed grit to cheapen it up.

Is this a one off Trevor or can you get hold of them for say the next 6 months ?

My views are: Canker. The more you treat for this the more you'll have to carry on doing so. I believe all pigeons have this to a greater or lesser extent and pigeons can naturally keep on top of it themselves, those that cant will be last back to the loft and wont be kept for the following year. I put an Iodine product in their drinker a couple of times a week which I believe aids in keeping the levels low. Worms. Dont think you can stop pigeons getting worms, cant see them being able to build an Immunity against these. Cocci. I see this as a barometer to the pigeons overall health. If it should be a high count all is not well, the pigeon is ailing in some way or has been through some type of stress like the moult or after a tough race. Look for the problem which caused the high count and not for a cocci treatment. Respiratory. If a pigeon gets this remove it from the loft, you can treat it or leave it to its own devices to get over but should it reoccur at a later date remove it from the loft permanently. This is the way I see things, whether its right or not who knows

Stress is a gateway to illness. The quicker we can get a pigeon to recover from over exertion the less chance it'll go backwards. I wouldn't call helping a pigeon to recover quicker 'propping up'. Years ago pigeons were given Johnsons Restorer/Tonic so you could say aiding a pigeon to recover is nothing new, Probiotics is just another step forward.

Was it a blue? Perhaps a Norwegian Blue pining for the fjords

I normally pair up my stock & w/hood team around the third week in January. I float the first round of eggs from the stock under the race team, this gives me two rounds out of my stock to race on the darkness system. I could pair up a good month prior to this and get another round out of my stock to put on the darkness BUT this would mean having to start training these youngsters that much earlier (Its my belief the quicker you get youngsters on the road the better). The added expense of feed and the cost of training these early bred youngsters to me just Isn't worth the hassle. I should also add It lightens the workload for that extra month.

Line out the loft with plywood leaving a 4-8cm gap between the brickwork and ply. The air in between the two will act as insulation and slow down fluctuations of temperature.

Saturday 12:30 Arsenal v Spurs 14:30 England v Samoa or Scotland v South Africa 17:30 Ireland v All Blacks Wont be getting a lot done tomorrow

Half Time Wales 6 Fiji 13

http://news.bbc.co.uk/sport1/hi/rugby_union/welsh/9162789.stm

Will gladly donate a pair of 2011 y/birds. Dagenham Essex Thanks Tony Ian

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-asia-pacific-11782582

Just hope its not going to be a bore draw.

Damn clever that is sapper.

Last couple of years have stretched out the daylight hours they get to 9 1/2 hours a day without any detrimental effects. Have heard of some that give them 10 1/2 hours of daylight, if anyone on here can confirm this it could maybe give you a bit more scope.

I look at studs as an easy option for obtaining pigeons unless they put their money where there mouth is and actually race themselves.

Race your hens on w/hood for the first 6-8 races then pair them up for the longer races. There's good results to be had by hens in the early races especially if the weathers on the cold side.