Larry Lucas

I haven't been on in quite some time -- more than a year, actually. I hired a man to manage my pigeons and they were all killed. He went on vacation and his son did not feed or water them. I have been grieving for quite some time. No legal recourse, a total loss. All the Super 73, Grondelaers, old Planet Bros. Van Loons -- all gone. Hope things are going well for everyone. Larry Lucas

What can you tell me about this eye? Look deeply into this eye and repeat: "All I need is good pigeons and good management, all I need is good pigeons and good management, all I need is good pigeons and good management, all I . . . "

How many soldiers lives were saved by birds of prey? None. Perhaps an article submitted to the press detailing the positive benefits of pigeons vis-a-vis birds of prey?

Here is a link from which you can download the Eagle Owl "voice". The consensus seems to be that it does not work. http://www.albertaclassic.net/hawks/hawks.php

It is a fact, snails and slugs are hosts for tapeworm. Probably why so many French are skinny. ;D ;D

I NEVER go into the loft without a mask -- my lungs are too important.

Roland, I applaud what you have written here. Larry

The observation that feral pigeons (derived from lost racers) are their main diet is pure, empty propaganda. First, feral pigeons are not descended from racing pigeons. It is quite rare that a banded pigeon is found in the wild. A study by Gary Gleeson in Australia proves conclusively that racers don't contribute to the population of ferals. Second, anyone ever see a hawk catching a feral? The Peregrine's nests are littered with rings from racers. :'( :-/

Thanks, IB, for posting these here. The consensus of these articles is that the oil gland is important for good supple feather quality -- apart from other benefits. A search of precis for related articles on http://www.pubmedcentral.nih.gov shows the same emphasis. I could not locate any articles in English, Spanish or Portuguese (Brasil) supporting the idea of the oil gland not being related to feather quality -- which does not mean they are not published, only that I could not locate them. I tend to think the oil gland should be examined when feather quality disappears from a pigeon -- but poor nutrition and/or a drop in general health can affect production in the oil gland, i.e., is it a chicken or the egg situation? For what it is worth.

Forgot to mention it is on the top side of the pigeon -- wouldn't want you digging around below the tail! ;D

At the base of the rump, just before the tail feathers. If you spread the feathers you will see a bump, looking a bit like a tiny tit.

IB I would be interested in seeing that article if you can reference it. My information above (apart from the anecdotal experience of the hen with dry feather) comes from Dr. Reuben Landriet in Belgium and Dr. Gord Chalmers in Canada, both pigeon fanciers and capable veterinarians. The parasite that can cause problems with the gland is well-documented (according to Dr. Reuben) as is damage and bacterial infections of the gland. In correspondence with Reuben he confirmed from veterinary literature that a damaged oil gland results in dry feather. My reason for the discussion with him was a valuable hen whose oil gland was damaged by birds climbing on her back during feeding at the hopper and as the birds "climbed" her back, their claws sliced the gland. Her feathering became dry and nothing could restore it because the gland was non-functional. I am not saying your source is wrong entirely, but it would be helpful to see the study you cite as it runs counter to my experience and the information from two good vets. Not having a go at you, I am interested.

The late Jan Grondelaers bred his birds for silky and thick feathering. In general, feathering with a little more flex wears better than dry, brittle feathers. The birds I have down from his Bourges Pair have wonderful feather. And yes, they win. I don't think I ever had a pigeon with dry, brittle feathering that raced well. Also, sometimes the oil gland can become plugged by parasites (there is a worm that is the culprit) or an inbalanced diet. A friend once visited my loft to look at my breeders and commented that a hen's feathers were far too dry. He looked at her oil gland and pronounced that it was plugged and before I could stop him pressed the gland between two fingers and expelled an oily plug. Sure enough, in the next few months her feathering returned to normal and were no longer dry. For what its worth.

Thanks for the good wishes for my wife. We received good news that her condition is treatable and that the symptoms may disappear. Good news, indeed. Vic, if I ever make it over to jolly old England, I will definitely look you up. Larry

Fall was wonderful and mild -- spring is even better.

Someone PM'ed to see if I was sick, dead or run off by tiresome fighting on the site. ;D ;D Nope, just occupied the last few months with the wife's health issues and refurbishing our other house for a new renter. Work duties heating up due to expansion of numbers of people involved -- not a lot of time. Trying to get the new loft up while there is still some time to put together a race team for the fall. May hatches are the latest I can push it with our yb race schedule. Hope you all are doing well. Larry

I had this problem one year -- A Permethrin dip eliminated the problem -- plunged them into a five gallon bucket of the mixture until they were soaked. After the moult their new feathers came in and they were beautiful.

I am from the USA, and my feelings about BOP are the same as you lads. One phrase: "Swedish Goshawk Trap" -- a "gift" to pigeon fanciers if they quietly use them and don't draw attention to themselves. I am not advocating breaking the law, but sometimes enough is enough. I had a friend in Minnesota who used them as aviaries on his loft. After all, our pigeon strays must be trapped ;D ;D ;D Do as the Scots have done and petition your primary government to revisit the issue of protecting birds of prey. They kill millions of threatened songbirds every year, and of course, hundreds of thousands of dollars in personal property: namely, pigeons. The current status of birds of prey is a testimony to the stupidity of misguided souls who don't have a clue about these devils with wings. Sorry, but this is one subject that boils my blood.

The birds are DQed if the activation fee is not paid before the race ($1,000). The DQ only applies to the cash prizes.

This is the loft I am building as part of my shop expansion. The loft is accessed from within the shop and is 8' X 20' with four sections. The shop itself is 20' X 22'. The entire building is 20' X 30'. The cost for modifying the shop to include the new loft including boxes will be less than $1,000 USD for the materials. The labor (mine) is free. $6.25 a square foot for the loft, not bad.

Pigeons behaving as though grains are stuck in their throat is normal. Usually it happens when they are eating rapidly and competing for a spot at the feeder. Mine often display this when they are learning to eat peanuts. Nothing to worry about. Check your feed mix to see if the percentage of grains is larger than normal. Not a big deal at all.

The Larson traps I have seen are not like the Swedish trap. The Larson's are more like a large net covered square frame with a hole in the top. The Swedish works with spring-loaded sides that close when a trip-stick is hit by whatever is being trapped. Very, very effective -- but one should keep in mind local laws governing such things. Another option is to contact a falconry club and ask for assistance in trapping and removing hawks. Many of those enthusiasts are licensed to trap falcons and hawks.

Here is something guaranteed to work. Check with local laws and regulations. http://www.raptorsnest.com/Misc/GosTrap/

Take a look at Linda's website. This is something I used to do when I lived in Minnesota. Works great! http://www.redroselofts.com/water_heater.htm

This all starts in the oviduct of the hen. One cause can be a lack of calcium or not enough sunlight to synthesize vitamin D. The other issue can be an oviduct infection. Both can produce knobby eggs. Toss the egg and every time you go in the loft give the hen 1/4 of a calcium tablet (or even Tums, made for heartburn and indigestion). Make sure there are plenty of minerals in the loft. I use liquid calcium gluconate in the hen's water for a few weeks before pairing up and make sure they have adequate time in the aviary to absorb vitamin D. If they don't lay smooth eggs after that regiment then I know there is an oviduct problem. For what its worth.