Tony C

I pair up the back end of January. I found that when I did pair up early my 2nd rounders were always the better pigeons. I put this down to training the 1st rounders to late. I had the choice of start training earler or pairing up later, went for the later.

They look like tiny bits of dirt running along the quill. An old fancier friend I know dips his pigeons in a solution of 15ml of Duramitex to a bucket of water to get rid of them. Not tried it myself.

Ring Issued to Stocksbridge H.S. (Sheffield) Tel: 0114 2884794 (or was in 1999 )

Thanks Just got to train it now to pay a visit to the jewellers ;D ;D You will also find that the rate they moult at is inherent, some families do moult quicker than others. Another reason could be down to the pigeons individual metabolism. I guess there is many more reasons, be good to hear others views.

Allowing pigeons to sit a nest and rear y/birds will delay the moult.

The only advantage I can see jimmy is that you would get another round out of your stockbirds to race. If I thought theres an advantage to be had racing old birds by doing it lol I'd be doing it. I'll not be pairing up for another couple of months yet

I found by letting them out everyday the young/yearling cocks would start raking the skies for hours. I felt this was not doing them much good so now they go out once a week.

Your question is a very broad one WRPM. y/birds raced on darkness are fed completely different than those left natural for instance. There are other factors like how many times a day can you feed them? how much training you intend to give them? also any illnesses they may encounter would have to be taken into consideration. There's so many variables that come into it, by taking a feeding system on board now and sticking to it I feel would be a mistake.The best thing I can do for you is offer advice throughout out the season if you require it. Tony

Could this be the link? http://www.scotland.gov.uk/Topics/Agriculture/animal-welfare/Diseases/SpecificDisease/AvianInfluenza/Biobestpractice

Think I've seen a Tiger Moth in my garden :o

As long as this aint on the badges ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

I've used Pigeon Express (Ernie) a couple of times now, a nicer bloke you couldn't meet.

pmsl ;D ;D ;D

Brewers yeast & fresh lemons.

Well done Chatrace, Linda & Don

Actually take in what my better half is talking about ;D

Feed a % of safflower to racers. Hulled sunflower seeds fed to pigeons getting set up for the distance

If they're RPRA rings, report one of them to the RPRA as found. The fancier will have to pay £35 for Amtrak to pick it up or face the threat of suspension (if the ring is register to him) alternatively he can transfer it to you for the cost of £1, I'm sure he'll see sense

Well worth adding to your favs. http://www.vpu.co.za/articles/rc_conradie/conradie/medication/medication_1.htm

Paulo, if I remember right the Marimans diat mix is similar to the Versele Laga Diat 200 mix

http://www.kjsgroup.com/rprs/aspx/docview.aspx?/rprs/itlasp/March2001/GrainsFuelandPigeonRacing.asp If this link doesn't take you to the page Grains, Fuel and Pigeon Racing directly click on articles under More site contents and you will find Grains, Fuel and Pigeon Racing

I always let water stand for 24 hours before I put it before the pigeons. This gives it time for the chlorine to dissipate, takes any doubts away if you want to mix anything in it and costs nowt to do ;D

As a base mixture nothing wrong with it at all. I would add depurative & maize if and when needed.

The name of this site 'Pigeonbasics' I would have thought attracts many new starters. I feel this site should have some obligation in protecting these new starters the best it can. One bad experience from the outset and the sport could lose them forever.

Flying name and location should be sufficient Rose