Tony C

I'm looking at it the other way. They say you cant show or race a pigeon for x amount of days after vaccination.............. is this because there's a possibility these recently vaccinated pigeons can become carriers for this interim time? I'm only assuming this so I stand to be corrected.

If it says dont allow your pigeons mix with other pigeons for x amount of time after vaccination I wouldn't unless your going to vaccinate the youngsters at the same time.

Wall to wall sunshine here but blimey its tatters out there.

Cytacon liquid 5mls to 2 litres every other day till the hens lay out. It helps enrich the yolk.

Getting the Dr around to look at my snowman, he's rapidly losing weight

When I raced my youngsters 'naturally' I fed Marimans Super-M. Two feeds a day, the first feed was mixed with depurative making it a 50/50 mix at around a 1/3 of an ounce per pigeon, the evening feed was 100% Super-M at around 1 ounce per pigeon. This of course had to be tweaked because the more work they put in around home plus the training they had could mean they my need a tad more. I trained them 2-3 times a week at around 35 mile (the harder they were trained the slower they moulted). I use to let them pair if they so wished which meant they didn't exercise around home too good but if I got them sitting it would slow them down in the moult. The only time they got any seed or trapping mix was when I exercised them around home before I took them training, just enough to trap them in, no seed given apart from that as again its was all about slowing the moult down. The day prior to basketing their daily ration was 3/4 ounce per pigeon of Super-M & the day of basketing they got 1/2 ounce of 50/50 (Super-M/Depurative) per pigeon. A mistake a lot of folk make is to give them too much feed on the day prior to basketing and consequentially they eat little on the day of basketing. More youngsters are lost through dehydration than anything else so giving them a half decent feed on basketing day ensures they have a good drink after they've eaten and if all is well they've had digested it all come marking.

Agree & bring out of retirement Benson & Hedges too

Float the first round of eggs from stock under my racers. I float them after they've sat them between 8-10 days so the hen can build her calcium levels back up.

Done.

Eggs started to appear in race & stock lofts, sub zero temps means I'll probably lose a few

After the court case and heart op I think he's had enough stress for the time being. also If I were to take a team into a competition I would've wanted to have qualified myself and not enter it on the back of someone else's work.

If I were Harry i'd give it a miss till after Euro 2012, let Hoddle take over for the mo.

Just heard on talk-sport Capello has resigned

I highly recommend John Tranter http://www.tranterloftsandtimbergardenbuildings.com/80415/info.php?p=3

A good social side to pigeon racing is a positive that shouldn't be underestimated. Many a good friendship have been made through these type of events. Nothing to do with the art of 'pigeon racing' perhaps! but for me I'd rather forge a friendship than sit there and dwell on what I might or might not have sitting in the loft and how capable I am at racing them.

The way I understand it (right or wrong) is that the liver is where you want the pigeon to store 'fat'. A regular feed heavy in fats doesn't have the desired effect because the body becomes accustomed to it being fed. Instead of the liver holding fat it gets spread around its body and weight is put on. If fed fats for a short period of time it gets stored in the liver where you want it, in fact the liver swells to accommodate as much fat as it can hold = a good storage of fat with no weight gain.

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Its my belief the RSPB are to big to tackle head on. I think the only course of action we can take is to chip away at the sides. A good place to start is the RSPB members that donate. I would make them out as armchair blood sport enthusiasts and not someone that donate towards saving them little nice birds they see in their gardens (if they're lucky). Play on their conscience I say.

A good cuts man to sit in the corner of my loft. Box 1 & box 8 are going at it hammer & tongs and its getting nasty

Have 9 pair of stock. I under sit the first round under my racers, the second round they bring up themselves.

Often read continentals also feed them cheese as well as sheep fat ( which I believe is suet )

http://forum.pigeonb...hl__Tic%20Beans

The only downside to peanuts that I'm aware of is that they can be subject to fungal contamination if kept in warm humid conditions (temps of 30C +). Some peeps nuke them in the microwave for 10 seconds before feeding them to the pigeons to kill off any potential fungus. I myself buy peanuts from a health shop and keep them in the fridge.

Yep! once they get a taste for them they'll walk over hot coals to get at them.