Guest lenwadebob Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 Do members treat for Canker, Coccidiosis, or worms as a matter of course, prior to pairing up. If so what products do you use to treat, and how long before pairing up do you do this.
pigeonpete Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 was thinking the same myself last night bob, will be interesting to read, need to get in a routine this year
just ask me Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 my advice is to get a general test done this will tell exactly what u should test for
ritchie1 Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 treat for worms and thats it will treat for canker when they are sitting on nest
holmsidelofts Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 my advice is to get a general test done this will tell exactly what u should test for Totally agree, if you dont own a microscope get them test first, no pint in treating for something you dont have. firstly its a waste of you money, and secondly blind treatment should be avoided as the diseases will build a immunity to the product you use if you abuse it and then it wont be effective anymore.
gulkie Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 Totally agree, if you dont own a microscope get them test first, no pint in treating for something you dont have. firstly its a waste of you money, and secondly blind treatment should be avoided as the diseases will build a immunity to the product you use if you abuse it and then it wont be effective anymore. totally agree also .do you take a pill when u dont have a headach.
fancypigeon_88 Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 i'll be pairing up boxing day then in the new year hopefully when there all sittin i'll send the droppins off to retford an treat as sge advises.
holmsidelofts Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 i'll be pairing up boxing day then in the new year hopefully when there all sittin i'll send the droppins off to retford an treat as sge advises. If im honest i would always test first before putting them together. you need birds in top health to produce the best youngsters and that starts in the egg and all the way through to weaning. Birds may look healthy enough but you just cant tell by looking at them that they are free of disease. What you rear now will be with you for potentially the next 5 years. get it right at the start and you've done all you can then its up to the birds. Jas.
holmsidelofts Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 Also to add, if i need to treat i would use the following: Worms - chevita ascapilla + ( one capsules treats all forms of worms, very effective, i wouldnt use anything else). Cocci - Baycox for 3 days ( only available from vets but very effective and can be used throughout the season without effecting form if the birds get re infested). Canker - i use emtryl tablets again from the vet, very effective ronidizole is also very good. I try to use tablets/caps where possible as you can be accurate with the dose, you know the bird has taken it ( some birds will go for days not drinking if they detect things in the water, and in hot weather they can tend to drink to much. If respiratory treatment is require which it never is these days for us i would use doxycyline again available from a vet. Even though i do all my testing myself and have a very good knowledge on pigeon health you must have access to a good pigeon vet, who knows what your knowledge is who can provide you with the treatment if you require it. I have access to 2 top pigeon vets. Just one point on antibiotics. Some times you have no choice but to administer them when a bird becomes ill. Antibiotics will only fight bacteria, they are useless against virus's but are prescribed when a virus is present to prevent other bacterial diseases taking hold when the birds immune system is down, the same as your doctor my give you antibiotics if you have a viral infection its not to fight the virus but to keep the other diseases at bay. One of the most powerful antibiotics on the market is baytril and i often hear of fanciers who use this regularly as a preventative. It should never be used in this context as its a broad spectrum antibiotic which kills not only bad bacteria but also good bacteria as well. Also never buy it from anywhere other than a vet as there is a shelf life of 28 days on it once opened. If you use it after that its not effective anymore, so if you buy it from others and the bottles been open longer than that you are wasting your money and time, thats why you should never buy any more than is need and always go to a vet, you know that you are getting the correct product at the right strength. Also never use products designed for other animals, its dangerous to the birds and there is no need as there a plenty of excellent pigeon medication thats designed for our birds. Hope this helps. Jas.
Guest strapper Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 jas m8...do you find that emtryl isnt as strong as it was. i mainly use rhonidazole now for canker..or if in tablet form metrodinazole<spelling. as you know jas m8 ,the vets would like to use better and stronger medications but have their hands tied by the law on medication strengths. emtryl was supposedly taken off the market(in the uk) but ive seen it here and there. i think emtryl is one of the finest meds you can get. any worm treatments i get are from graeme smith. resp treatments can be got most places.
holmsidelofts Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 jas m8...do you find that emtryl isnt as strong as it was. i mainly use rhonidazole now for canker..or if in tablet form metrodinazole<spelling. as you know jas m8 ,the vets would like to use better and stronger medications but have their hands tied by the law on medication strengths. emtryl was supposedly taken off the market(in the uk) but ive seen it here and there. i think emtryl is one of the finest meds you can get. any worm treatments i get are from graeme smith. resp treatments can be got most places. Hi strapper. Only the powder form of emtryl has been taken off the market, tablet form is readily available from a vet and i get emtryl from graham smith to. I really like the tablets from chevita for worms and if i have need to use them they have always been 100% effective 1st time. never requiring a repeat treatment.
Guest strapper Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 Hi strapper. Only the powder form of emtryl has been taken off the market, tablet form is readily available from a vet and i get emtryl from graham smith to. I really like the tablets from chevita for worms and if i have need to use them they have always been 100% effective 1st time. never requiring a repeat treatment. i have noticed emtryl(powder) is still being sold but its not the same colour or texture i used to get from graham. havent seen graham for a few months...so i havent had the pee taken out of me for a while....one good thing about graham..he likes a laugh.
greenlands Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 Jas homesidelofts, Quote. "Also never buy it from anywhere other than a vet as there is a shelf life of 28 days on it once opened. If you use it after that its not effective anymore, so if you buy it from others and the bottles been open longer than that you are wasting your money and time, thats why you should never buy any more than is need and always go to a vet, you know that you are getting the correct product at the right strength." The last time I visited a vet for Baytril I got 50ml which the assistant took from a full litre bottle in my presence.So what you are saying the remains of that bottle unless used in 28 days if of no use ? Lindsay.
OLDYELLOW Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 will be taking a dropping sample to my Avian vets very shortly and a bird for swabs , they seem to be in good healthy state and at this time of year as not very warm should have very little to ail from and no cross contamination from the baskets , all medicines i use are from my vet as most off the shelf products are only half the strength as prescription only medicines , so that people treating blind dont over use the products but if half strength then aint doing birds much good by treating blind and it not been the correct strength for the job
mark proctor Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 yes this year is going to be the first time in 11 years im not going to treat for this and that before pairing up,,i useally treat for most things prair to racing,,worms canker mainly..but what if there cocci levels up abit,,so going to send there droppings of before i pair and before i race next year,,trail and error..jmo thou,,,was at doncaster yesterday on medpets store,,orderd a few bits and bobs,,said to this bloke who served me isnt kev winter a agent for you,,,he said yes,,,i am kev winter,,talk about feeling small,,lol,, :B :B :B :B :B :Bive delt with im this year a few times and hes sorted me out,,,didnt try and sell me oat either,,,very nice genuine guy he is,,would recomend im to anyone ,,he said he deals with alot of the unc lads,,last time i rang im we chattedfor a full hour,,,theres not many vets i no that will do that...all the best lads with what ever you decide to do anyway,,,,,mark.. :) :)
mark proctor Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 will be taking a dropping sample to my Avian vets very shortly and a bird for swabs , they seem to be in good healthy state and at this time of year as not very warm should have very little to ail from and no cross contamination from the baskets , all medicines i use are from my vet as most off the shelf products are only half the strength as prescription only medicines , so that people treating blind dont over use the products but if half strength then aint doing birds much good by treating blind and it not been the correct strength for the job agree buddy.. ;)
OLDYELLOW Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 however pairing up time can be stressfull for the birds and canker can flair up during the pairing up period , some cope better than others and individual treatment of pairs when they've sat both eggs if need be this is to ensure the health of the adults to be A1 as the young birds need there parents to be in the best shape to rear them well in the wild if parent ail the nest would be unviable sometimes only one yb surviving , if your birds arent right for the job before rearing they will struggle wet nests ectra
mark proctor Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 good info there mark m8,,,will keep that in mind m8...thanks.. ;) ;)
REDCHEQHEN Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 Also to add, if i need to treat i would use the following: Worms - chevita ascapilla + ( one capsules treats all forms of worms, very effective, i wouldnt use anything else). Cocci - Baycox for 3 days ( only available from vets but very effective and can be used throughout the season without effecting form if the birds get re infested). Canker - i use emtryl tablets again from the vet, very effective ronidizole is also very good. I try to use tablets/caps where possible as you can be accurate with the dose, you know the bird has taken it ( some birds will go for days not drinking if they detect things in the water, and in hot weather they can tend to drink to much. If respiratory treatment is require which it never is these days for us i would use doxycyline again available from a vet. Even though i do all my testing myself and have a very good knowledge on pigeon health you must have access to a good pigeon vet, who knows what your knowledge is who can provide you with the treatment if you require it. I have access to 2 top pigeon vets. Just one point on antibiotics. Some times you have no choice but to administer them when a bird becomes ill. Antibiotics will only fight bacteria, they are useless against virus's but are prescribed when a virus is present to prevent other bacterial diseases taking hold when the birds immune system is down, the same as your doctor my give you antibiotics if you have a viral infection its not to fight the virus but to keep the other diseases at bay. One of the most powerful antibiotics on the market is baytril and i often hear of fanciers who use this regularly as a preventative. It should never be used in this context as its a broad spectrum antibiotic which kills not only bad bacteria but also good bacteria as well. Also never buy it from anywhere other than a vet as there is a shelf life of 28 days on it once opened. If you use it after that its not effective anymore, so if you buy it from others and the bottles been open longer than that you are wasting your money and time, thats why you should never buy any more than is need and always go to a vet, you know that you are getting the correct product at the right strength. Also never use products designed for other animals, its dangerous to the birds and there is no need as there a plenty of excellent pigeon medication thats designed for our birds. Hope this helps. Jas. Good Post !
OLDYELLOW Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 another consideration is stock birds if kept as prisoners bones thin and lack calcium, in order to lay nice healthy eggs with nice shell , i give my birds live natural yoghurt in there drinker and this helps to get nice shinny eggs
Tipplerman Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 How long prior to mating do you give them live yoghurt? and what type of live yoghurt do you use?
Guest youngzimmy Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 FOR WORMS EQVALAN FOR Canker, Cocci DE WEERD B.S. 4 IN ONE
mark proctor Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 another consideration is stock birds if kept as prisoners bones thin and lack calcium, in order to lay nice healthy eggs with nice shell , i give my birds live natural yoghurt in there drinker and this helps to get nice shinny eggs i havent got a stock loft or any stock birds as yet mark...landlords not to fussy about me having another loft in is garden...lol ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D
OLDYELLOW Posted December 6, 2009 Report Posted December 6, 2009 How long prior to mating do you give them live yoghurt? and what type of live yoghurt do you use? 2 weeks before and through out breeding with the cooler tempertures it keeps well for up to 3 days and i stir it through thoroughly and it takes the appearance of week milk grated cuttle fish can be added also ( disolve with lemon juice but not at same time as the yoghurt ) , as for yoghurts used it must be a live natural yoghurt can be found in most supermarkets i use Longley farm one from morrisions Linseed is good to use sparingly during raising young birds as aids there development a couple of egg cups full to feed per day is enough for 30 birds or there abouts
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