birdman55678

Albear that is exactly the kind of information I was hoping to get.. thank you. Ed

Only one thing to do is cut back on the feed, if they are hungry I will guarentee you they will trap immediately. Also if your feeding before you train then don't, and if you aren't then don't feed the night before. Feed is your only control. Just my thoughts anyway. Ed

I learn long ago to also keep a written record of everything, when I first tried the computer thing I spent a couple months getting everything put into the computer, 5 years worth of breeding records. I thought all was well with it. Turned out 6 months later my pc caught some type of virus that knocked my harddrive out and my records were unrecoverable, all I then had was what I could remember, and thats not much now a days. I have since kept both written and pc records, the trick now is sorting threw all the notes and keeping them in order.. LOL. Ed

As a general rule a young hen should be able to breed and produce youngsters at 6 months, young cocks usually are ready around 5 months. Personally I would prefer to let the bird mature to at least a year old, to me they seem to take much better care of the youngsters and will then raise you super healthy babies. My thoughts anyway. Ed

To beat Carol (MS PIGEON) just once... Ed ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

Almost every hardware store will carry them this time of year, go to them christmas tree lighting section and ask for a christmas tree light timer. good luck. Ed

Albear, Staffy was a legend but unfortunately only in his own mind.. LOL. Ed ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D ;D

thanks my friend. Ed

Now thats funny that you mention the ducks, none around here but the geese are flying everywhere here. Wonder if one of them been sneaking in the loft at night.. LOL.. Ed ;D ;D ;D

Here is a link to a free site, it might help ya out. Thanks. Ed http://www.stop-sign.com/sx/si009b.php?n=s_gg_anti_dnld&kw=gg_anti_dnld_3_563_p019_t0916_ct_download%20anti%20virus&b=%26qq_googlesyndication&pg=%26index&ver=online

Well if you guys were in my club I would gladly like to see you split up the successful pair. ;D There is only one way I would split them up and that would be when they got to be around 10 years old and then I would put the pair back on the youngsters to try and recreate the original only younger. I have been told that in the 4 generation of line breeding you will then have a DNA duplicate. Just my thoughts. Keep em together.. Ed

Looks like it will be a good site. I had a hard time getting into the forum site, message came up and said servers were busy or something, I waiting a couple minutes and got right in. Good job on the work. Ed

Have not heard of either Dave Allen or John Magee. The videos available over here are very limited. Is there a place on line that will let you order them. Thanks. Ed

Under the wings there are three feathers that are either rounded or squared off, do these have any special meaning to anyone and if so what do they mean for you. I have cataloged all of mine and more have the squared off covlet feathers. Thanks in advance. Ed

I recond most have noticed at one time or another that some ybs when hatched have orange feet while others have black feet. Has anyone kept track to see if the orange or black fly better than the others. Wonder what causes this, I suspect it has to do with the actual color of the bird but I am not sure. Just wondering if anyone has any ideas. thanks. Ed

I would suggest not feeding corn until the longer races start in either yb or ob races. Ed

Dave depending on how sucessfull you have been (of course the more sucessfull the better ;D) it is going to amaze you at what you see. Try checking your birds that have bred winners for you against the birds that are just also rans. If you do this then you also will be a newfound believer and the reading will have just commensed. Thanks and good luck. Ed

Also I agree that the more interpertations then the better. I am updating my breeding records on the PC so will check back time to time. thanks. Ed

Daimond Dave. It won't become a challenge as I will not accept the bait, I always just say what I do and believe and them that don't believe or accept what I say then so be it.. Anyway getting back to your questions I will be as basic as I know how. The eye one of two colors either white or yellow (this is the base color beneith the iris) I know there are different shades of white or yellow but please bare with me on this. Pretend that you are looking at the eye without any thing in it but one of the two base colors. What you see on top of this base color is what is refered to as the mountains and valleys. In all seriousness what they are talking about is the Iris and not mountains or valleys. When looking at the eye the Iris jumps right out at you I believe the number 7 eye above shows it best, the white color is the base and the red to darkish brown is the Iris, if you look at this iris the lighter colors of red would be the mountains and the darker shades of brown are the valleys especially where there is some whitish color showing through. To see most vertical and horizontal lines a loop is almost always needed but not 100 percent of the time. Hope this helps some, I can try to go into more detail if you like. Ed

I guess I should add when you get to the site just run your mouse or curser over the ring you want to identify and on the pix of the eye it will highlight it and below the picture it explains it. There are also much more to read in the site. good luck. Ed

I am including a link here that totally explains what most here are looking to understand. Jack has put it up a few years back and I have looked at it many times, and although I don't agree with all of it I do believe it is an outstanding site and everyone with any need or want to learn about eyesign should click on the link and check it out. I could have just answered the questions with Jacks words and everyone would have thought I was a genius which is the way I feel about Jack. Anyway hope this isn't breaking any rules but here is the link. Happy viewing. Ed http://www.albertaclassic.net/eyes/barkel.php#

OK John, Dave, Wiley and whomever else here goes. I will say again I don't mess much with the circles and only use the eye for picking my breeders but I will try to address as best as I can. The only rings that concern me with the pigeons eye (for breeding) is the 5th or outside ring and the 3rd circle or ring of correlation. For me these two have to be equal in size. Many others believe all the circles must be somewhat equal, the more equal the better, the coloring on the two circles must also be the basic same color. Many birds I have saw do not have the 5th circle and would never be allowed to breed in my lofts. The iris must be very bright and the pupil should dialate when put in bright light, smaller the pupil the better, a pupil that will not dialate means you have serious unrepairable problems with the bird. I believe a good racer shows horizontal lines threw the ring recognition and vertical lines for a distance bird, I have not proven that theory out as I don't use eyesign for that. Dave I believe I addressed your questions if I did not do so then please re-ask what I need to be more clearly on. Also please remember this is just MY interpretation and I am not in anyway trying to say or act like I am an expert on eyesign. This is just the way I use it for myself. I don't make $$$ with it now or ever will as most of my thoughts are much different than those that do and it will not be long before a challenge of some sort is put up here telling me I know not what I talk about. But trust me this is the way I use eyesign. Hope it helps. Ed

Raining here so mine will stay in today. Ed

Don't figure anyone would be critical about being a pigeon fan... ;D Ed

Westy your alright I don't care what Alf says... Ed ;D ;)