NEW LOFT - IDEAS PLEASE

[showman]

As some of you will remember, I hopefully will return to racing pigeons, and have to build a new loft.

The space available is 24' x 6', and will have to face west.

Intend to try and build a team to fly Fance, so will probably be natural racing.

Any suggestions to number of compartments, trapping method (non-ets) etc.

Ideas & suggestions most welcome, so I can get some plans set in my mind !!

Cheers, Folks.

Paul.  

 

[Guest]

think a lot of its down to personal choice . mine i would prefer 4 ft wide sections ,with 6 boxes in for old birds ,and 12 perches for ybs ,better control could have a couple of teams of obs and ybs ,and set each section up,by feeding and motivation to suit you.oh and open door . andy.

[showman]

So that would give me 6 sections..is that right Andy ?

ie..6 sections ea 4ft wide = 24ft

or are you thinking all of loft being 4ft deep ie 24ft x 4ft?

[Guest mick bowler]

Paul if it was me i would have 4 6x6 sections with interlinking (solid) doors and solid partitions between and also a door at the front on each section. This is so you could have a variety of different available sections deciding on time of year and racing system used, so could have 2 sects for ob, then when racing it becomes 1 12x6 and then 2 sects for yb, and can race seperated or 2 sects for different rounds etc or one 12x6 section again.

 

I found racing natural/roundabout the best trapping was as small a trap board you can use, mine was around 18 inches long and 8 inches high/wide and mine would trap like bullets to it and then no room for a cock to chase hen if they arrive together, if any mine sat and messed about on the board the other arrivals would just barge them out of the way to get in!!

 

With yb you cannot beat a sputnik to ease them into trapping, and can be changed later on to a stall trap if required. I had a flight with a sputnik on the outside and a stall trap on the inside so to start they would need to go thru both, then later on would remove the sputnik.

 

Facing west just make sure the front is well closed in as thats where our prevailing wind and weather comes from here. Try to do it so the front can be opened up on a nice day (opening windows type thing).

[Guest]

So that would give me 6 sections..is that right Andy ?

ie..6 sections ea 4ft wide = 24ft

or are you thinking all of loft being 4ft deep ie 24ft x 4ft?

 

Paul ,6 x 4ft sections for me if i was building from new,   andy.

[Roland]

Make sure of GOOD air circulation. In at botton front say, hits the back and then up and out the middle. False roof, or chimnies.

£290 with fitting I see also in the BHW regularly advertised.

Roof, regardless needs to slope to the front, so you can see if anything, such as cats are at the back. Of ground, but enclosed with 1/4 inched holes or 1/2 inch mesh. Whilst building, cover botton and any pillars with glass by glueing too them / it. Rodents can't climb or gnaw in then. Enclosed but airiated yet nothing again gets, or can hide underneath. Niether can pigeons mate and nest underneath. One hell of a problem stopping them from doing it  etc. Sliding doors give better room, less frightening when opening to the birds, and easy peasy to use even with one hand full.

Skylights a very good idea / persplex when building. Electric fence, around £70, around the bottom and top of the loft / fence will be a boon and very well spent. Wooden / plastic uprights to they land on landing board. That's for starters.

[bombersbullets]

i would  have 3 sections m8 as of trapping i would use traps hope this helps

[showman]

Thanks to all...a few ideas to ponder over.

[Roland]

USE as many screws as you can--will be easerier to change/move things around. AND it will be things to change or move.

 

Agree of course, or Nuts washers and bolts better still.

 

[Guest gladdo]

yeah well its all ifs and buts and how much you have to spent...great air circulation but not draughty a must .... insulate loft sides and floor also a must ...i HAVE A TILES ROOF BUT THE BEST FLIER I KNEW WAS FLAT ROOF ...my personal view is young birds for a tiled roof .... pigeon racing is great as its all ifs and buts ..ive a young bird loft i consider a really good loft...flew out of it last year and the condition of birds as good as anyone,... virds did really well ...only problem is im racing out of my partners back but that loft will stay in my mums back for now ... i was asked by 4 pigeon fliers would i sell but told them simply NO ... its an outstanding loft ... mikey..make no mistake in my eyes 2 years which aint long but the loft is alot to do with success as i ve seen with top fliers and thats why my own lofts cost me at least 5 k in cash and lots of hard work aswell ....!!!! mikey

[holmsidelofts]

Hi mate.

I would highly recommend ronnie williams style ventilation. it has transformed my loft ventilation wise.

below is what i post a wjile ago. Its taken from a post on pigeon chat.

On the ventilation front i posted this below not long ago.

I have adopted this on my youngbird loft for next year and have the stock birds in there at the moment and you cant smell a pigeon in there.

The below example is based upon the ventilation from the lofts of ronnie williamson of ireland, he is one of the best fanciers in the world, 56 1st nationals cant be bad.

This was posted a while back on pigeon chat.

See below:

Essentially this system of Paul Gregg 3 roofs.

Your first roof is a tin corrugated roof.

First you have your main loft roof, you start by cutting the top of the tin ridge

to make a 1 inch slot. It is 18 inches long, and on every ridge.

This is done at the back of the loft.

Then at the back of the loft you put a 2 inch wood beam, and in front of the other 18 inch slot, put

a 3 inch beam to create a slant. Put a tin roof over this with obvious overhang.

Inside the loft you put a ceiling, with plastic vents in it.

 

Please ask Questions I bugged Paul like hell, as its complex if you don't get it.

It can seem complex, but its dead simple, and the best flat roof conversion I have ever seen.

Thanks to Paul Gregg, for been so open, helpfull and kind in helping me, it was time consuming , Thank you Paul again.

Hi Paul, do you have any open fronts or Vents:

 

A. I dont need any air opening in my lofts as i have fresh

filtered air coming into my loft 24/7. If your loft is of the ground you

could do what Ron does, on the floor of the loft 2 inches from the front

wall Ron drilled a 2 inch diamater hole evey 18 inches to let the air enter

from under the loft and exit at the top creating a chimney effect, i had the

same in my loft untill i got the ventalation put in.

 

Q: Paul I worry, rain will pour in the open slots on the main Roof:

 

B. The loft slants 6 inches from front to back, the rain

will never enter the 8x1inches slots for they where cut out on the top ridge

of the tin so any rain running down the roof runs on the bottom ridge and

bypasses it.

Do you space the slots or are they in every ridge of the roof.

 

C. The 8x1inch by slot runns the entire lenght of roof

on the top ridges of the tin.

Does the pipe suck air out?

 

D. The ceiling runs fron to back. The pipe you see in

the y/bird loft is also in the o/bird loft and it brings fresh filtered air

into the loft 24/7. I dont need a fan attached to my lofts as the double

roof acts like a chimney drawing the stail air out 24/7.

 

The system was devised by Ron and it really does work a treat. Anyone who

has ever been in Rons loft have all said they have never seen a better

system, you just cant smell pigeons.

 

 

 

 

This shows the cut outs in the roof.

 

 

hope this helps.

 

Jas

 

 

 

 

 

 

[showman]

yeah well its all ifs and buts and how much you have to spent...great air circulation but not draughty a must .... insulate loft sides and floor also a must ...i HAVE A TILES ROOF BUT THE BEST FLIER I KNEW WAS FLAT ROOF ...my personal view is young birds for a tiled roof .... pigeon racing is great as its all ifs and buts ..ive a young bird loft i consider a really good loft...flew out of it last year and the condition of birds as good as anyone,... virds did really well ...only problem is im racing out of my partners back but that loft will stay in my mums back for now ... i was asked by 4 pigeon fliers would i sell but told them simply NO ... its an outstanding loft ... mikey..make no mistake in my eyes 2 years which aint long but the loft is alot to do with success as i ve seen with top fliers and thats why my own lofts cost me at least 5 k in cash and lots of hard work aswell ....!!!! mikey

 

I imagine it will be flat roofed Mikey, as it has to be built a bit on the cheap ( Redundant since Feb ) and lofts costing thousands of pounds are simply way out of my league.

[Roland]

Similar, or same as Mine.

I put a wire mesh as the roof. 18 inches at the back, down to 6 inches above at the front I have another roof above the wire mesh. This slopes to the front so I can always see if any cat of such is on the loft at any time. The top roof overlaps well the wire mesh roof below.

Now for cost effectivenes, and a loft that never rots, wears out etc. I suggest that framework is done for sectioned covered, as the out walls also, with Mesh both sides. 1/2 mesh I have. Then these frames out side haveplastic air vents fixed to another frame that clips onto the frame work. I also use Plastic Cladding, which is £6 - £7 now nearly and is 5 metres in length and a foot wide. Easy to cut andagain eithe clip to another light frame for fixing to the loft. They interchange so you can control tempreture, wind effects etc. Indeed in the summer taking the sides completely off quickly leaves just averies. etc. etc.

[showman]

Can visualise your plan Roland, my only query is that 1/2" mesh the mice could get in.

[pjc]

2 sections 5ft, 8 x std 30" widowhood boxes in each

2 sections 5ft with perches

1 section 4ft for either widowhood hens, stock pairs or corn store.

[showman]

2 sections 5ft, 8 x std 30" widowhood boxes in each

2 sections 5ft with perches

1 section 4ft for either widowhood hens, stock pairs or corn store.

 

Must admit Phil, I had that outline plan in my mind.

 

[pjc]

it gives you plenty of options, sputniks on the front for the youngbirds and open door for the nest box sections.

[Roland]

Can visualise your plan Roland, my only query is that 1/2" mesh the mice could get in.

 

Well place another over it to make it 1/4.

[owen101]

hi there mate

a man down the club built mine not the best but is dry inside

and houses my pigeons ok

and it cost me 30 quid to buy it from him

 

 

heres a pic mate

[fred x]

hi there mate

a man down the club built mine not the best but is dry inside

and houses my pigeons ok

and it cost me 30 quid to buy it from him

 

 

heres a pic mate

--------------------------

 

You got a bargain their m8.

   I ask a price to biuld a shed for my young birds,

Size  6ft x 4ft & 6ft high  Flat roof, two opening in the front for trapping, one door on end

Front & one side in shiplap,  back & roof with ply & roof felted. 2'' x 2'' ruff timber, Got a price of £650.00  Seems a lot of money to me!!!.  any chippys on her can give me some idea of what a shed that size my cost???  Or you my think it's a fair price!!

 

 

[owen101]

it may be a fair pric mate as they will be professionals this as just a club member that did a bit of joiney once and jut built it to the size i wanted it to be and he also gave me felt for the roof

[showman]

hi there mate

a man down the club built mine not the best but is dry inside

and houses my pigeons ok

and it cost me 30 quid to buy it from him

 

 

heres a pic mate

 

Brilliant !! At £30.00 I would say that's a great buy. Couldn't put the floor down for that sort of money !!

 

 

[Roland]

First 3 lofts were great, Seasoned timber and what not.... Nothing. Went and saw guys on the Demolishion sites. Save burning or holding on to stuff that may never sell, then burning and hassle shifting... Just gave them a bottle or so. Then went and brought tongue and groove etc. when first moved here and cost me a lot less than £300 for a 5 x 2 (17 foot loft.

Had it altered twice when got a few deals... Last time I built as said. I reckon now at £7 a throw for plastic cladding of 16ft 6inches. a few plastic corner pieces and the Mesh of Pigeonpete. 2 inch suare rough timber - Personally would still be visiting demo sites too - it would cost much more than £300 with a good roof.