RESPIRATORY TREATMENTS

[peterpau]

Thanks ribble, but I am not trying to blow my own trumpet. I couldn't get 'em to fly round my hat till I bought the Colin Walker book. Top advice from a top vet. I don't like the implication, I am stuck in the dark ages. I'm not on commision but I try to get everybody to by this book.

[jimmy white]

i cant understand how many fanciers look for a cure ,,rather than look for the cause

[peterpau]

Jimmy. The book I quoted earlier said exacly that. Carol may not agree. To me it showed what to treat when to treat and how to treat. The message to me was, if we need to do all these things, may-be we should have a good look at what we're doing

[Guest Paulo]

I thought res problems were caused by a poorly ventilated loft and overcrowding? If thats the case than surely the answer is to make sure your loft is well ventilated and not to keep too many pigeons. Not rocket science is it? My dad was a successful flyer and he never had problems with res disease or treated for it? I've had his pigeons as pets for quite a few years as well and I've never had any problems with it as well.

 

''I think Jimmy has hit the nail on the head  "I cant understand how many fanciers look for a cure ,,rather than look for the cause''

 

How many of you let every man and his dog troop around your pigeon cree as well thats how a lot of diseases get into the loft from the race pannier and visiting fanciers. When I start racing no body is going to get in until they have disinfected their feet in a bath full of disinfectant and have put a loft coat on and disinfect their hands before handling the birds. May seem a bit over the top but i want to win races and the pigeons health is everything. Plus it might keep the spies from finding out about my secret racing mixture made from the urine of monkeys with a bit of old spice mixed in it.

 

If any strays appear then they will not get in the loft and be kept in a hutch outside.

 

"there is a thing called the magic bottle, it wont make bad pigeons good but it does make the good pigeons perform better beacause you need the perfect health to obtain the top results , and the day of the fresh air clean water and good beans are gone.''

 

I agree with the fact that you need perfect health etc but I wouldn't say the secret is in the magic bottle. Good sound well bred pigeons and good stock management are whats needed the best racing men have an affinity with their pigeons they feed them a good diet, clean water, plently of vitamins and minerals, medicate them but above all they observe the birds get to know what makes them tick, moviate them and train them hard. theres no shortcuts, no secret systems etc, no magic potions just good pigeons, good stock management and lots of training.

 

Got to be ruthless as well if a pigeon can't or won't perform it has to be culled would a professional racehorse trainer waste time on a horse that can't deliver the gravy? What you have got to remember as well is the pigeons must be HAPPY & CONTENT would you be happy and content if you were a pigeon and the drinking water was a different colour every day and you were having pills rammed down your throat every two minutes and your home was overcrowded? Fair enough treat if neccessary but I would say preventation is better than cure.

 

Theres a guy I know who  when every new medicine, treatment, supplement etc is bigged up he has to get because he thinks it will make him win he thinks the magic potion will save him but in his search for that he misses out the fundamentals of good stock management and moviation.

 

Sorry if all the above is a bit gobby I don't know everything I'm a novice compared to some of you lot but the above is what I believe through my personal experience of knowing good pigeon men who consistently win races and listening to what they have to say about they methods. I think people get that jealous they prefer to believe that there is a secret potion etc special breed of pigeons etc that they have and they think that only if they can get such and such a breed of pigeon and such such a magic potion that they will win big as well.

 

Pigeons are naturally tough animals with strong consituations if you are frequently having outbreaks of res disease, young bird sickness etc then you want to have a good hard think about what is causing the problems and how you can prevent it. Pigeon Racing is an expensive enough hobby as it without spending stupid sums of money on treatment for illnesses that could be prevented.

 

Don't mean to offend anyone just my views on things you can tell me to shut up if you want and give me a clip around the ear. lol

[MsPigeon]

Jimmy. The book I quoted earlier said exacly that. Carol may not agree. To me it showed what to treat when to treat and how to treat. The message to me was, if we need to do all these things, may-be we should have a good look at what we're doing

 

The Flying Vets Pigeon Health Management by Collin Walker

Page 39- respiratory

"In a well managed loft where drugs have been used correctly, this immunity should be realativly solid by the start of the season." page 40 " If respiratory infection durring racing has been a problem in earlier years, preventitive courses of antibiotics can be given before racing...to decrease the level of Chalamydia in the birds system so that they are less likely to break down with the stress of racing ahead. ...common recommendation is 3 days treatment every third week..."

Page 91- canker

"...if it has been more than 3 weeks since any preventitive medication has been given, then 99% of these teams will have wet canker..."

Page 139-140 Management of Pigeons Health by Successful Fliers During Race Season

page 141-Veterinary comments

"The concern regarding the control of wet canker and respiratory infection is a valid one. These are the two main diseases that will put a good team off form. They affect good lofts and the best managers because of race unit exposure and the unavoidable stress associated with racing."

 

[peterpau]

So if I treat Cocci , Canker and worms and also use a preventative for e-coli. Do I need to treat for respiratory? I think not. Five years on from buying the Colin Walker book I now treat less, and still see less infection, and I have never treated respiratory.

[MsPigeon]

I guess if respiratory disease has never been a problem for you peterpau, then no. But as doctor Walker states "In race birds, signs of Chlamydia flare-ups are considerably more subtle." Have you read Jack Barkel's articles on his thread?  Mycoplasmosis and Respiratory disease are the same thing.

Carol

[peterpau]

No I haven't read the Jack Barkel article (but will) Now I didn't say respiratory has not been a problem. My way of thinking is it isn't.  But that's where I am coming from. We have 1 young bird from a newly introduced Belgian cock, this bird has had a touch of respiratory. Now my other young birds will fly for ever. What would you do with it. My way of thinking is, Cull, Treat, or my choice give it time and see. My opinion is it wont cut it .

[MsPigeon]

I would seperate it and treat if it shows outward signs of distress or has a runny eye. But watch the others as well, it spreads like a common cold usually through drinker and feeder. I had an early batch of yb's coming out of lights in Feb. They immediatly began a heavy body molt (stress) and like you I had some new birds, with new birds comes new strains for your birds to build up immunities to. I started hearing sneezing, then I had one with a runny eye, I made the dicission based on Dr. Walkers book, to treat this round. They all are beautiful and flying great now, have been trained out 25 miles no problems. The next round were seperated by a wire division, so they were exposed but did not drink and eat from the same containers. They went through a sneezing stage but no one eyed colds so I didn't treat them and all is well. By far one of the healthiest and most vigorus batches of YB's we have raised. They fly and fly and I have only dropped 1 out of 90 since I started road training.

Carol

[pender]

keeping birds as pets and racing them in top competition are lot diff they mixing with other birds for a start you are puting stress on them with pairing training etc etc and as you agree you got to medicate. so i was not far off then was i ? that is what i ment about magic bottle did not meen it a bottle with magic elixar.

[Guest Paulo]

Fair one medication is fair enough I misunderstood you and thought you were on about magic elixar and secret potions

[jimmy white]

in treating,,theres differant treatments , but as far as anti biotics go , if you treat a lot with that or mess about with that your courting trouble any vet will tell you that , even any doctor will tell you that,, antibiotics , a great invention , saved many lives, but not to be abused,,,,some pigeon fanciers abuse them

[Guest]

SUGGESTIONS ON A IMPORTANT TREATMENT

THANKS[/quot

 

                                           :)dont smoke

[Guest TAMMY_1]

SUGGESTIONS ON A IMPORTANT TREATMENT

THANKS[/quot

 

                                           :)dont smoke

 

                                            DON'T DRINK

[Guest]

 

                                           SQUARE-PEG DOESN'T BUY DRINK

 

;D ;D ;D

[Bilco]

I have never seen a wild bird with the snots.  Fresh air is free, and nice big louvres top rear and bottom front in any loft will ensure your birds get plenty of it.  Treatments if you do get it?  One teaspoon of Tiamutin 12.5% in the drinker daily for five days, or a level teaspoon of Erythromycin Soluble ditto.  Suanovil (from Vet Chemists in France) is excellent, it is Solubilised Spiramycin (We used to call it Rovamycin when we were allowed to buy it here), and one level teaspoon in a 2 litre drinker will have wattles sparkling white in no time, repeat two days later.

[Guest shadow]

Fresh air and good ventilation then if you still get the odd bird going down with it out it from the loft. Good birds never get sick well not in my loft.

[DJ]

hi all, 2 of my pigeons have developed greasy wattles but only 1 of them (a yb that i bred ) has developed a gurgle/croak  the yb went out for excercise as usual today but when called in for feeding he barely eat anything    ive been given a 300ml bottle of chevicet-t by a friend that was never used but the only instructions given are written on the bottle in a foreign language? im assuming that the chevicet-t came with instructions written in english but has been mislaid by my friend and need to know what doses to use and also wether i need to do anything like removing the grits/salts for the duration of treatment ? also can it be given if yb,s in nest? i would be really gratefull if any fanciers could advise me on this as would like to start treating asap   many thanks

                                               debbie :-/

[REDCHEQHEN]

instructions:

 

http://www.chevita.com/en/products/chevicet-t.php

 

it goes on the food

[DJ]

hi redcheqhen  thanks for the reply but ive already looked on the site and know that its added to the corn but it doesnt say wether it (chevicet-t) can be used if there are yb,s in the nest or wether i have to remove the grit/minerals for the duration of treatment? unfortunately ive got a yb hatched just 2-3 days ago ( i was sure i had swapped all their eggs for plastic ones :-/)  basically i just want to know if i can use it with a yb in the nest and wether i need to remove the grit/minerals as u need to with some meds ?  thanks for your help  

                                          debbie

[Guest]

Think its safe to say birds with respiratory infections don't go out for exercise. Not eating a lot might be odd behaviour but not always a sign of illness, bird might simply not fancy what's in the feeder, or might not be hungry.

 

Are you sure the greasy wattles aren't down to the YBs pairing up, and caused by mock feeding? Would also explain why bird wasn't hungry.

[DJ]

hi bruno  thanks 4 the reply   the affected pigeon which is now croaking like a frog did go out for a while yesterday but wasnt his usual energetic self and stopped flying after 15-20 mins  he normally climbs all over me at feeding time but yesterday didnt show much interest in his food even though  the corn is the same as he normally eats without any problems? he,s eaten some corn today which had the chevicet -t added to it so im hoping that i will see some improvement soon?  ive treated all my birds as another one is also looking suspect    i cant seem to find out wether u need to remove the grits/minerals while treating with chevicet-t as u do with some meds?  if anyone can advise on this it would be much appreciated

                many thanks      debbie  

[Guest]

There was a post up somewhere about grit & minerals affecting medication, but I honestly can't say one way or the other.

 

What I can say tho is that chlorine in drinking water 'may' affect medication given via the drinker. As minerals also contain chlorine, maybe the advice to remove minerals is based on it containing chlorine. Won't do any harm removing grit & minerals for a few days, just in case.  

 

If you leave a jug of tap water overnight, it'll be chlorine-free too.

 

Hope your birds recover OK.

 

 

[ALF]

STICK A COUPLE OF DROPS OF OLBAS OIL INTO IT'S NOSTRILS IT'S ONLY 2 OR 3 POUNDS FROM ANY CHEMIST AND IT DOES WORK

[bewted]

if got respirotory disease olbas oil wont help !!!only short term !!!