Chatrace

I used those pellets last year for the whole YB season. Do as it shows on the bags as the % of each the gold and green. And no Grain at all, well maybe a peanut or 2 on the 300 if they will eat them after nothing but the pellets. I was pleased with the feed ,but didn't do any better than when we used grain feed. We are going back to the 13 grain mix again this year, will be almost half the cost

wasn't this morning

a day or 2 of Apple cider vinegar in the water should also firm up a newly moved bird or even one with just loose droppings. 1 teaspoon to a gallon of water.

when the blood bubble on the breast is showing thru the pink skin and pumping

Western Pennsylvaina, USA

To young yet, if only a late breed 2005 he has gone thru the door yet,some go thru faster but some take 10 months to come around

Aks around,maybe someone will give you a few YBs to start the season. Wish you lived close I could load your up with 20 real fast. Good luck

I would hold it at least a week, just to let it build some confidence.

the hemp works good ,also I have a light on near the special pair so they have atleast 14 hrs of light 16 is even better IMHO

use just enough to tint the water, A teaspoon to a gallon is almost to strong 1/2 teaspoon would be plenty.we like to use it 2 days before basketing which is 3 days before a release

how do you merge results now between the other clubs and or federations. I would think someone get the results and adds them to a single program. The printouts from each ETS would just be sent to be added like they are now. We here as a 8 club combine all agreed to use just one type of clock before we bought the 1st one. we do however have diffrant clocks in the federation,but the results are just typed in from our result sheets the same as clubs who still use countermarks.

After mine hatch I leave a smaller light on in the loft 24x7 like a 40 watt near the water .I want the parents to be able to feed and water anytime they feel the Ybs need it. When I move the YBs to there own loft they get 18 hrs of light. If I can have them hatched out and ringed the 1st week in Jan and on 18 hrs of light till the end of june,most will have moulted out the full wing and body. Extra protien feeds are used during this time also,plus some training but mostly loft flying and some short tosses only till the 7th flight is finished. If birds are late Jan early feb ,I have found you need to cut the 9th and 10 th flight and pull them one at a time after the 9th is 75% in you can pull the 10th and that should still have you a full wing for the racing season. even if its later the 10 th will be in before the 300s. at least 1 if not 2 baths a week help the moult go faster also.

I'm not a scientist, but have the feeling the birds need to relate to natural things as much as they can, to inhanse there homing instinct. Even if it is just a small bit of sun coming in they learn the direction, I also start there training early in the mornings so they relate to fly to the East when released,Only because we fly from the west to the east :-),but the at least head in somewhat the right direction although it may be a bit south or north of dead east. as I stated They then only have natural light starting in June. There is over 14 hr. of light then anyway and they get the natural clock set again before race season starts.

if your gonna do lights,you should have them on eggs very soon. if you start racing in Aug you have till the end of Jan to have your Ybs. That is if you want a full wing without pulling flights.Let them have 16 to 18 hrs of light and make sure they see natural sunrise and then the lights come on about 30 min after sunrise. you can turn the lights off at the end of june and nature will take over from there and it lets them get used to less light so they are ready for racing. The Tape that was mentioned above was very good,but I changed a few things here to my own liking. Thats what we all do,what ever works best for you. Good luck

Check for a plub in the bottom of the clock wher a wire can be pushed in to move the gear on the hands. Can be moved back for the stamp and back to good time before reporting. Also they can remove the whole side of the clock with 3 pins drilled out, we have one of those at the club to show people what we look for when we fly our Special where lots of $ is involved.

try again

Ours Sits in the Middle of a 40 acre Yard You can see it being built here: http://hometown.aol.com/chatrace2001/NewLoft.html

its broke

The old wooden windup clocks can be fixed to come apart and the time hands moved for an early bird easier than the new EClocks can be. A single wooden dowel drilled in at the right point can be removed and a wire inserted to change the setting. We have found several here when the flyer forgot to turn the plug to realign the grain of the wood. There will always be cheaters, but there are more honorable flyers than cheaters.

I will breed about 40 for auctions and Out of Area Races. Keep a couple for stock. But will start training around 140YBs that are sent to my race.

It should be done the day of shipping random 1 for each loft and the the 1st 4 place after the race. Before would let the drugs show better,3 or 4 days in the baskets and most could be worn off after a long race

Here is a site as I built our loft maybe you can see or pick out some things that might help. http://hometown.aol.com/chatrace2001/NewLoft.html

I lock the birds in from Nov to early March. Hawks are bad then. I leave the loft open just like in the summer, they can go in and out of the flypen any day they want. The lofts are all vented at the roofline and have intake grills along the front bottom wall. They do get extra corn when the temp is below 15 degrees. Always have water for them in heated bowls. water is a must in cold weather.