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sapper756

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Everything posted by sapper756

  1. bumphttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif
  2. correcthttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif
  3. the same can be said of Dennis Dallhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif
  4. In my opinion. I would split the sexes, however if you have made up your mind not to do this, then remove the eggs and replace with dummies, or else they will continue to pair and layhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif
  5. http://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gifhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gifhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gifhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gifhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/laugh.gif http://www.funny-games.biz/images/pictures/223-drunk-guy-funny.jpg
  6. more like REALISTIChttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif
  7. naw, youhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/unsure.gif
  8. Be carefull this does not slow down the moulting process m8http://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif
  9. Do the PB members have any tips/ideas/theories, on how to accelerate the moulting process? THANK YOUhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif
  10. HIMhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/angry.gif
  11. I would request the details of the original owner of the birds, and then contact this person, 1, to request a transfer and 2, to confirm the person I bought them from, had in fact obtained them honestlyhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif
  12. AND ANOTHER http://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif http://www.tourdesmaritimes.com/Photography/Andy-1.jpgWhen photographing birds I use a Nikon Coolpix 4500 digital camera and I always assume that I will eventually use the photograph for printing a hard copy so I set the camera at the highest resolution possible. This setting on most cameras is called "fine". Digital cameras have other settings called normal and basic. These lower settings limit print size because there are not enough pixels for a high-resolution picture. For example using the fine setting on the 4 mega pixel camera the photograph size will be 2200 x 1700 pixels at a resolution of 72 dpi and will produce a resized 10 x 8 inch digital image at 225 dpi. The 3 mega pixel camera will produce a photograph size of 2048 x 1536 pixels and when resized will produce a 10 x 8" image at 205 dpi. Both of these 8 x 10 inch photo will be excellent for printing. I recommend that digital images should have a resolution of at least 200 dpi for good print quality. Normally the higher the resolution the better the quality of the picture. Kodak recommends a resolution of 225. However, for the internet photos are always at a resolution of 72 dpi. The lowest setting "basic" is used mainly for emailing photos that will only be viewed on the monitor. Do not resample a digital photo larger. This will effect the quality of the picture. Some enlarging (10 to 20%) can be done but it's better to leave this to someone with experience. A quick tip from Jasc Software – Notes on Resizing Resizing an image for printing can result in poor image quality. When you enlarge an image, the image loses detail and sharpness. As a general rule, don't enlarge an image size more than about 25 percent. If your image needs more than a 25 percent change, re-scan or create the image at different resolution. If scanning a photo follow these steps. Set the scanner at a minimum resolution of 225 (300 dpi is better) and set the dimensions to the size required and set for true colors. Select the bird and remember you are scanning the bird not the picture. Then save as a Jpeg file. Tips for Photographing Racing Pigeons Camera Settings Most modern digital cameras have an excellent automatic mode that will automatically adjust to the conditions. I normally set the flash to go off all the time. Some digital cameras have other settings but if you are not comfortable with them I suggest you use the automatic mode. Preparing the Bird Wash the feet of all debris. Washing the legs and feet will make them redder. Clean the toenails and beak. If any feathers are dirty clean them off with a wet rag and then put the bird in the basket for 30 minutes to settle it down. Some birds hate to get their feet washed and will struggle in your hand therefore ruffling their feathers. Photos taken in the winter (December & later in my area) when the birds are completely molted produce the best results. Before putting the bird in the photo box, hold the bird in your hand for a few minutes. While doing so stroke the bird towards the back gently. This will calm the bird and reposition the body feathers to lay firmly against the body. Make sure the cover feathers on the shoulder are arranged correctly. Nervous birds often struggle in the hand and their feathers will often be out of place or ruffled. When placing the bird in the photo box consider which way you want the bird facing for the photo. Photos can be flipped horizontally but it will make the band appear on the opposite foot and the band numbers will be reversed like on the hood of an ambulance. However this is usually not noticed and of no major consequence to the picture. Taking the Photo I use a photo box that measures 16" x 24" x 16". A nest box will do fine. A spotlight would be useful but not necessary. I use two 60 watt bulbs fastened to the top front of the photo box. A tripod is also recommended but not necessary.Remember "patience is a virtue" - you will need it. Taking a good photo is all about "profile". Some birds are naturally photogenic and will give you the perfect profile. Most will have to be prodded into position. An 18" dowel is very useful for this purpose. Before shooting these are some things to look for.The bird should be facing to the right or left and the camera should be perpendicular to the upper shoulder of the bird. I shoot from a distance of about 18". Turn all lights off behind you. The darker behind you the better because the bird will tend not to want to leave the photo box.Use the monitor on the camera and zoom in or move in to the point where the birds fills most of the monitor.When placing the bird in the box make sure that the wing tips are sitting on the tail. The first thing the birds will do is leave a dropping. It is advisable to pick it up because most of the time they will eventually step in it.Both feet should be side by side and the tail slightly down.Using the dowel coax the bird in to position. By stroking the bird under the beak and gently lifting the head will help. Most birds hate this procedure and will shake their head when touched with the dowel.Click away. Usually it will take several photos before you get the right one. Once again, I remind you that "patience is a virtue". You will need it. Good Luck!
  13. Found this article, thought it might be of interesthttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif Building A Simple Photo Box By Alex Cornella I have been experimenting with capturing my pigeons in photos for many years with varying degrees of success. Not long ago I took a 30” x 30” cardboard box a computer came in and set it up in my garage. I cut holes in the front, top, sides and front, and then spray-painted the inside of the box. At first, I used blue paint and later went to white background. It ain’t pretty, but it gets the job done. I installed three lights, one on top and two on the sides. The light fixtures on the sides are aluminum work lights that you find in the hardware store with 40-watt bulbs. The light on top is an old fluorescent fixture. I painted a nest bowl gold, but decided I liked white better, and turned it upside down to give the birds a perch. I use a long-handled, narrow paintbrush to position the bird and smooth ruffled feathers. I try to remember to wash the bird’s feet before snapping its picture. Initially, I employed a 35 mm camera with a short lens and 200 ASA film. The results were reasonably good; however, the cost of film and processing was a bit expensive considering usually one or two photos per roll are keepers. More recently, I graduated to a digital camera I like very much and has more features than I will ever be able to comprehend. With the digicam, you know immediately if a shot is good and you can crop out objectionable background like inevitable pigeon droppings. The camera I use is a Sony CD Mavica (3.3 mega pixels) that cost around $500. The Mavica records the images on a mini CD disk that I can pop into my computer without fooling with wires, which is a great feature. The key to purchasing a digital camera for this purpose is to get one with the most mega pixels you can afford. The more mega pixels, the better quality of the images. Although I am not completely satisfied with the results – there are still some shadows in the images – my pigeon photos have come a long way. While they are not as good as the photos the professionals take, they are reasonably good and getting better. Of course, positioning the bird takes patience and practice. Not all birds are calm and cooperative, or stand nicely for a photo. I speak to the bird softly, gently prodding him with the paintbrush until I have a good position and take many shots. When I finally get a good image, I am rewarded with a feeling of satisfaction and accomplishment. ### By Alex Cornella
  14. It is sad when one of the biggest clubs in Europe, end up like this, is this what happens when we sell to Yanks, whom are solely interested in making moneyhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif
  15. http://img.skysports.com/10/10/218x298/MartinBroughton_2513180.jpg Broughton: Talking with Henry An apparent temporary restraining order obtained by Liverpool co-owners Tom Hicks and George Gillett in an attempt to stop a takeover deal has been described as 'unwarranted and damaging' by the club's directors. WHERE WILL THIS ALL END???
  16. http://daylife.sky.com/imageserve/0aNZf5RfQG7kg/610x.jpg LAST MAN OUThttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif This puts life into perspectivehttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/sad.gif
  17. Today in Fife, United Kingdom Today | Tomorrow | 10-Day | Monthly | Seasonal | Almanac Current Conditions http://i.uk.imwx.com/global/images/spacer.gifCurrent Timehttp://i.uk.imwx.com/global/images/93x93/27.png10°CFeels Like 8°C Mostly Cloudy Last Updated: 05:50 14 Oct (local time), 04:50 GMT Observation Station: Leuchars Wind From West at 14 kmph Humidity 82% Pressure 1,022.01 mb Dew Point 7°C Visibility 10 km What's Next Weekend Forecast Today's Outlook http://i.uk.imwx.com/global/images/spacer.gifMoon Phases Today's Forecasthttp://i.uk.imwx.com/global/images/61x61/30.png High 11° Sunrise: 07:40 Chance of Precip. 20% Partly Cloudy Tonight's Forecasthttp://i.uk.imwx.com/global/images/61x61/29.png Low 8° Sunset: 18:12 Chance of Precip. 20% Partly Cloudy
  18. http://daylife.sky.com/imageserve/08Fx3jcdOv2vv/340x.jpg
  19. The rescue so far seems to be a successhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif
  20. AND ANOTHER greenjade3 http://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_images/master/user_popup.png Joined on Today, 18:40 PM
  21. LOSThttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/blink.gif
  22. SOAPY BUBBLEhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/tongue.gif
  23. SWITCHED ON BLOKEhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif
  24. WHERE???????????
  25. SO THEY SAYhttp://forum.pigeonbasics.org/public/style_emoticons/default/wink.gif
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