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1St Time Racing This Year Any Thoughts


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Posted

Hi all;

 

I have been raising pigeon since one year and never raced. I have what i beleive a good stock and i allready bred 25 birds which are 4-6 monthes old.

 

This year i am racing, our race starts 10th feb. this year and moult ends end of october so i will not have a chance to breed anymore for race.

 

I was thinking to race the roundabout system this year and some natural hens. From what i have learned i have to pair them 75 days or something before race for one round then separate them then 2 weeks before race pair again and wait till eggs are 3-4 days then remove eggs then 2 days later remove hens and then i am set up for race. also show the hens (open the door between the sections) after each training/race for about 2-3hrs and mid week for half day.(our race is on fridays here)

 

my questions are

1- if my understanding are correct?

2- is there any tips or tricks i am missing?

3- when should i start training both teams (while they are on the first round or when?)?

4- when showing the hens after each training and race do i have to lock the hen or not (i do not have this widowhood boxes but normal ones - they are not sold here where i live - )?

5- Do i have to show the hens before basketting or not?

6- what feed % you think correct (i usually feed same mix of 30% peas, 30%maize, 10%pellets, 10%wheat, 10% bean, 10% millet)

7- I have to use electrolytes as it is a bit hot weather here before and after race ?

8- Do i have to use vitamines and amino acids as most fancier here do or if birds are healthy they can compete well?

 

regards to you all (please answer in detail)

Guest spin cycle
Posted

IMO keep it simple as you learn the 'trade' and that means natural...concentrate on training (to get experience) and around loft excersize for extra fitness. good luck :)

Posted

I think Spin Cycle has it right. In what will be only your second year racing, stick with the basics of natural racing. You asked quite a few questions about feeding, vitamins, electrolytes etc. so this is where you should concentrate your efforts. Take it slowly....watch and learn. Patience , my friend, patience.

Posted

I think Spin Cycle has it right. In what will be only your second year racing, stick with the basics of natural racing. You asked quite a few questions about feeding, vitamins, electrolytes etc. so this is where you should concentrate your efforts. Take it slowly....watch and learn. Patience , my friend, patience.

 

thanks for your reply but still no one answered me. Actually I bypassed last year race not to rush myself into the sport, so patience is there, but I am finding roundabout easier for me to practice on my birds and the number of birds i have fit the system as i only have 20 birds (10 cock and 10 hens). Actually I can see no difference between roundabout an natural in the effort to be made (roundabout is a litle easier for me), in both you have to calculate quite well when eggs will be there.

 

Anyway i hope someone answers my question in details.

 

Another question to be added is how long can i keep roundabout sytem (our race is 10 weeks will they be on form all the 10 weeks or they will get used and loose interest after 4-6 weeks) so i will have to pair them ? and if i have to pair should i start with pairing in short races and then roundabout or roundabout then pair after 4-6 weeks?

 

Regards to all.

Posted

Sadawy,sorry can't answer in detail all your questions as my typing skills leave alot to be desired.Your pairing up plan seems ok and training can be done after you remove the second round of eggs.If the roundabout system suits you that is fine,you should have no problem racing for 10 weeks always remembering not to let the sexes see each other too much.Regarding feeding,a light mix early in the week will also help in maintaining form over 10 weeks.There are a few motivation tricks eg. two hens one cock etc. that may help and I'm sure the lads on Basics will have a few more idea's for you.atb.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi Sadawy,

You would certainly learn more if you used "natural" flying ,which basic thoughts mean repetitive nests through your race season,starting first races useing driving cocks,then sitting 7days,14 days, pipping,7days youngster,big youngster with cock looking at hen,the list is endless,and if fit a few could bring decent results,but simply celibate/sliding door system,should make life easier keeping sexes seperate throughout season,just sliding door back 30mins before basketing for race,allowing sexes to do no more than mingle before sending off.

Biggest problem would be control of hens wanting to pair and lay,but without further imformation on type of race programme,distances,environment, design of loft ect hard to offer much help

Posted

i would advise raceing natural then you get to no your birds what to look for little things they show off when there ready to be sent but you got to make sure there 100% healthy and 100% fit as you get no were plus need to be trained well i dont no what distances you wont to race up to but natural raceing is winning all the distances yeah widowhood cocks are hard to beat when there on form but a well schooled natural cock on a nest of chipping eggs or a big youngster will be there but ya got to no when its time to send its not like a widowhood cock you get a few weeks out of them no probs natural raceing is all about nowing your birds and no what makes them tick each week be it a nest of eggs or chipping eggs or a youngster its all trial and error and when you find what makes your birds tick dont change it keep to that

 

all the best

k.baker

Posted

thanks you guys

our race here is on friday we have 10 station from 200kM up to 700kM, one race per week.

[/quote Hi Sadawy,Your race programe here would be classed as sprint/middle distance type ,and would suit flying to the perch/celibate systems, and seeing your race team will be latebred yearlings from unclassed stock,racing to the perch every week will soon sort out the workers from the rubbish giving you something to work with at seasons end .Excersise early morning and evening with seperate sexes a few weeks before racing starts would soon bring them into racing trim.

As for your food concerns,as long as it is clean and sound you will have no problems ,and extra vits/elec lites may help with the heat you have,although racing pigeons cannot perspire as we do so how knows?

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

thanks you guys

our race here is on friday we have 10 station from 200kM up to 700kM, one race per week.

[/quote Hi Sadawy,Your race programe here would be classed as sprint/middle distance type ,and would suit flying to the perch/celibate systems, and seeing your race team will be latebred yearlings from unclassed stock,racing to the perch every week will soon sort out the workers from the rubbish giving you something to work with at seasons end .Excersise early morning and evening with seperate sexes a few weeks before racing starts would soon bring them into racing trim.

As for your food concerns,as long as it is clean and sound you will have no problems ,and extra vits/elec lites may help with the heat you have,although racing pigeons cannot perspire as we do so how knows?

 

Thank you tommy2

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