Basis for loft building

Roland · February 15, 2007

Some simple basis I believe for building your own loft. And can be very cost effective.

A loft needs air circulation and a place for the birds to shelter from the elements. An affinity to some ‘Box’ they can get not only attached to, but be content with. A pace just outside of it's ‘Neighbours’ peck!

The sound structure needs to be weighted down. Such timber like uprights or cross beams are best bolted, but I never have … always going to. The bottom Beams I feel are best bolted onto a ‘Kerb’ or like structure, leaving gaps for air to circulate. Fill in the gaps with a Mesh to stop not only the birds from going under the loft – there are some that will mate under there as sure as eggs are eggs – but cats, vermin etc.

After all the doorways are in place etc. and the ‘Loft is divided into appropriate departments, then the whole shindig covered with two layers of wire mesh. Best with a 1inch baton covered both side in wire mesh. The smaller the mesh squares the better.

This can then be laid straight on the ‘Ceiling’ (Not the roof.). Remember you must have made allowances for the roof to be fixed a foot or so over THE ceiling. Also the roof needs to over lap the whole loft by a foot or so.

Best to have it sloping towards the front, not only does it protect a little from the rain, but you will see a cat on top! Between the ceiling and the roof, it needs WIRE mesh or similar so the wind / air draw through like a flat top Haystack.

Now the outside wants air vents joined via frames up to half way. This also wants to be covered on the inside with a wire mesh. Again the smaller the squares the better I feel.

Top half to be how you see fit of course in regards trapping, light, etc.

A trough covered with chicken mesh lid 8 inches wide catches the droppings if you so wish.

I feel also that a box effect to be able to feed and water from the outside is often of use … especially if a non pigeon fancier ever has to look after them.

stevebelbin · February 15, 2007

Now if you go by the flying vet book which ive recently being reading, the loft needs to be kept at a temp of approx. 20degrees and have a humidity of between 50-65percent. And not have a change in temp over 24hours of +/- 5 degrees. This is to maintain the form of the birds over a longer period. How would the above loft maintain these parameters??

pigeonscout · February 15, 2007

Now if you go by the flying vet book which ive recently being reading, the loft needs to be kept at a temp of approx. 20degrees and have a humidity of between 50-65percent. And not have a change in temp over 24hours of +/- 5 degrees. This is to maintain the form of the birds over a longer period. How would the above loft maintain these parameters??

I do not agree with the flying vet it is only his opinion that a loft needs to be kept at a temp of 20 degrees and have a humidity of between 50-65 percent and not a fact. The facts are a lot of winning lofts do not have heating or humidity control, and lofts that do fly no better. I do not believe something just because so and so says so, take a look at the facts then form your own opinion. Now If you look at what the vet is saying, it would stand to reason that all the tops lofts had a temp of 20 degrees and have a humidity of between 50-65. Now ask yourself is this fact? If a bird is well fed it will maintain its own body heat fact.

stevebelbin · February 15, 2007

;D ;D, Dont worry I wasnt having a go, Im just interested in all things regarding loft design, as im trying to get mine right. I thought it was interesting that the humidity in the loft and temp difference affects the cocci level etc. I think ive got my loft right now with a bit of playing about with vents and louvres etc. I do have heaters in mine, but have been a little dubious of the affects it will have on the birds, so rarely have it switched on these days.

Roland · February 15, 2007

Very true PigeonScout ... Steve nothing stops one from having Blinds, Heaters or fans, sliding panels etc... Personally I feel that it is better for the birds to come into form, then into super form naturally. I further believe it to be very hard for a bird to hold form for a long period of time ... average I'd say 8 weeks and you'll be doing well. Spring onwards, but I seldom race till May anyway.

But you will see via droppings if birds aren’t resting etc. at night. But All lofts need fresh air and to be dry!

Did have sliding panels once to control the air flow in winter … felt it was not only burdensome etc. but birds fared far better with a natural climate change over night. Will have to get some photo’s done and let you all pass comments, good and bad.

pigeonscout · February 15, 2007

I thought it was interesting that the humidity in the loft and temp difference affects the cocci level etc.

A blow touch and scraper will have more effect on cocci and will cost a lot less. The only heating I would get is under floor heating just to turn on now and then if the floor got damp.

Roland · February 15, 2007

Again I agree totally PigeonScout ... beginning to worry me lol.

I hard the birds on Tick Beans and Maple peas for a while after racing ... then added some barley to cleanse the blood. Soon as the snow hit I bought a sack of Maize - Hemp is good also - to warm their blood a mite.

As it happens it wasn't needed really, just the 2/3 days like. But there is a nip in the air so it will remain as such. Birds fly out each day in turns, as there is enough light for both. Don't bother to get up much before 11 and like to try and be regular. So it's Cock birds out at 12 one day, hens the next but do clean out each day. If blood is clean, air ways clear, and a little exercise, can't see much being wrong with them. If one or so get poorly, and others don't, bang goes their chance of breeding till provened by the races.

I find that good birds don't tend to over eat, nor do they get poorly, well definately not often.

February 15, 2007

If this is true I would be in a terrible spot my latest loft is open on all 4 sides it is basically a roof they can get under then the walls come down about 24" and then there is about 20" of wire that is open all the way around then the walls go on down to floor the wind blows straight through I will cover this window that runs all the way around with burlap but just to cut the light not air, the roof is tin and has a 1" opening all the way around I was going to build shutters to cover this window but after this winter we have had I dont think I will it was 18 degrees with a windchill of 6 degrees I put fresh water in the loft my birds started taking baths I couldnt belive it they flew up on landing board and began to oil up as if it were a warm spring day they are flying out 2 plus hours a day in the snow and blistering cold ( its only supposed to get to 12 today ) they are eating like it's going out of style I am cafeteria feeding I am using about 1/2 corn and they are picking it out first I am giving about 5% barley and calf manna 1 time a week in addition to cider vinegar after seeing and feeling these birds I have a few new thoughts on loft construction

I am getting ready to start a new loft I am going to build it out of sod I am going to frame lots of windows from 2x12 pressure treated lumber and the door as well I think I am going to use tin for the roof although I am doing some research on that part