wee tips for novices

[tskyes]

 

You are as sharp as a minora blade!!! :PLOL

 

Skull

 

[john nico]

wll my little tip for your widowwood cocks ov a friday is 2 turn bowls over then put your hens in dont let your cocks go into there boxes with the hen leave them for about 10 mins when you go in they will be lying by the box wanting 2 get in dont let them in basket them for the race it will save them enegy by not fighting as much in race basket they will just be thinking ov racing home 2 there hens and should trap like rockets give it a try

[wilkins]

 

Since this is a thread aimed at novices, I think further explanation would help understanding.

 

First there are hundreds of amino acids, the body produces most of them that it needs except those few called 'essential' which simply means that the body cannot produce it, and they need to come in as a foodstuff, .e.g barley.

 

Second, I'm not sure what the 8 'essential' amino acids are in pigeons? Are they

-- isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine,tryptophan and valine? Can someone confirm please.

 

i will have a look at the feed to win book to confirm the one's you mention ,

 

[Guest chrisss]

 

Since this is a thread aimed at novices, I think further explanation would help understanding.

 

First there are hundreds of amino acids, the body produces most of them that it needs except those few called 'essential' which simply means that the body cannot produce it, and they need to come in as a foodstuff, .e.g barley.

 

Second, I'm not sure what the 8 'essential' amino acids are in pigeons? Are they

-- isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine,tryptophan and valine? Can someone confirm please.

 

isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Tryptophan and Valine. are the essential amino acids [just nicked it of a site 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)]

[Guest IB]

 

isoleucine, Leucine, Lysine, Methionine, Phenylalanine, Threonine, Tryptophan and Valine. are the essential amino acids [just nicked it of a site 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)]

 

Well in that case, I think we can safely stop worrying about them.   According to Fit to Win 2, pp96/97 the following grains (most commonly found in pigeon mixtures) all contain at least all of these, only difference is in amounts.:-

 

Buckwheat, Peas, Barley, Millet. Oats, Lentils, Maize, Peanuts, Rye, Rice, Sesame seed, soya beans, dari, wheat, sunflower.

[jimmy white]

another wee tip for novices,,[but very hard to do ]" is dont put all your eggs in one basket"  meaning , off course, not training all your yb,s at the same time,,,,it pays in the end

[Guest]

another wee tip for novices,,[but very hard to do ]" is dont put all your eggs in one basket"  meaning , off course, not training all your yb,s at the same time,,,,it pays in the end

 

also split your team and race alternate weeks in case of a bad race

the ones left at home train

after a few races stop some

ensureing youve old birds to race the next year

 

this would be more for  new start

[Skull Lofts]

for road trainig y/birds!

 

What i do when i want to take them to the road for the first time is

the following:

1.When you feel that they work well enough around the house,the

following morning i let them out to fly by the loft as usual.

2.When they come down i call them in as usual,but they dont get any

food or water.

3.I now basket them to be taken on their first toss.

4.When at the selected liberation point, usualy 10km i wait for about

10min. and off they go.

5.When they dont make it under 20min. they go back to the same place

the next day,(the first few tosses i give them 2min. per 1km for

flying time.)

6.When all went well i jump them to 15-,25-and 35km every following

day,stil ONLY taking them out after their morning flight around the

loft.

7.Usualy from here i take them back to the 35km spot for another 3

times,but now WITHOUT the morning flight around the loft.

8.From here i jump to 2@50km tosses,2@70km tosses and then 140km where

after they are ready for the first race from 250km.

 

 

I started doing it this way last year after reading it on some

fanciers site on the net and i was amased by the results it brought.

 

 

The secret lies in letting them first fly around the loft like usual

before taking them out on their first toss.

They seem to fly their minds clear at the loft and when taken on the

first toss they head straight for home without any problems.

Another thing i think is that when one dont let them fly around the

loft first is that when liberated for the 1st toss they have to much

energy and tend to range at the liberation sight before heading home

and when they realize they have to go home they are far off.

 

 

Skull

[Roland]

Feel jimmy that depends on the hardness  / distance of a race.

Many now indeed only race their birds every fortnight, and just two tosses that week. Feel does keep the frsh.... but must get the in first class / mint condition first.

For instance 60 miles chuck, 2 - 3 times a week.... a race of 74 miles.... then a rest needed of at least five days! :-/

[klorinth]

Skull,

 

From a total newbie, that sounds interesting and makes sense. Flying around the loft is like a warmup and reminder of their home. They then are thinking about home and the food that is waiting for them. I like it.

[Skull Lofts]

Skull,

 

From a total newbie, that sounds interesting and makes sense. Flying around the loft is like a warmup and reminder of their home. They then are thinking about home and the food that is waiting for them. I like it.

 

you will never do it otherwise again, i PROMISE

 

Skull

[jimmy white]

a galley pot of grit or minerals etc,, allthough, needed by the birds, can be a haven for the spread of cocci etc, if left to go dirty or damp,, far better just putting enough in the pots for one day ,only my opinion

[Guest]

for road trainig y/birds!

 

What i do when i want to take them to the road for the first time is

the following:

1.When you feel that they work well enough around the house,the

following morning i let them out to fly by the loft as usual.

2.When they come down i call them in as usual,but they dont get any

food or water.

3.I now basket them to be taken on their first toss.

4.When at the selected liberation point, usualy 10km i wait for about

10min. and off they go.

5.When they dont make it under 20min. they go back to the same place

the next day,(the first few tosses i give them 2min. per 1km for

flying time.)

6.When all went well i jump them to 15-,25-and 35km every following

day,stil ONLY taking them out after their morning flight around the

loft.

7.Usualy from here i take them back to the 35km spot for another 3

times,but now WITHOUT the morning flight around the loft.

8.From here i jump to 2@50km tosses,2@70km tosses and then 140km where

after they are ready for the first race from 250km.

 

 

I started doing it this way last year after reading it on some

fanciers site on the net and i was amased by the results it brought.

 

 

The secret lies in letting them first fly around the loft like usual

before taking them out on their first toss.

They seem to fly their minds clear at the loft and when taken on the

first toss they head straight for home without any problems.

Another thing i think is that when one dont let them fly around the

loft first is that when liberated for the 1st toss they have to much

energy and tend to range at the liberation sight before heading home

and when they realize they have to go home they are far off.

 

 

Skull

:-/ FIRST toss 5 mile two at 10 miles 3 at 13 miles, there first race 118 miles GUERNSEY 1st 2nd 3rd FED 2500 BIRDS ;)Ive been there up and down that road not any more, found a much better way