modeans

[chickadee]

 

 

once a non fancier brought me round 2 modenas he got in his garden, i put them in the loft and my racers went daft, so i had to take them out, took them to the local siverburn park and they kept them,

 

 

So is there a lot of modenas at the park now?

[Glassfeather]

Yes I quite like the German ones, but I do recall that the ones here in the UK, even in the last 10 or 15 years, were much smaller and not quite so coarse as the ones on show these days. Also, I saw a couple flying to a garden dovecote a couple of years back near where I used to live in Peterborough. They were quite small, longer legged, tighter feathered, nice little pigeons.

[PigeonClarke]

Like nuns they are a very territorial breed which is why they seem aggressive...They seem bigger today because to try get a fuller head they have been crossed with kings.

[PigeonClarke]

NPA Standard 1993

FOREWORD: The primary purpose of any standard is to guide the breeder in his quest to produce uniform specimens that most nearly resemble the ideal. It follows then that this standard must also be the guide for the men chosen to judge our shows, and consistent evaluation in all sections of our scale of points is our goal.

We hope to impress in the minds of all members that the Modena is a balanced bird with many equally important sections; that we should recognize and search for desirable traits and not be overly concerned with minor faults; that in the evaluation of each bird, the judge must adhere to the scale of points regardless of personal preference.

SCALE OF POINTS

 

Shape of body 20

Station 20

Head, Neck, and Eye 20

Color and Markings 20

Legs 10

Condition 10

 

SIZE: Using a given figure of nine inches shall serve as an approximate for the Ideal Modena height. Seven inches to serve as approximate length. In breaking down to three parts: it shall be approximately three inches from the top of the skull to the low part of the back. The body profile, from the low part of the back through the body to be approximately four inches in depth with approximately two inches of leg extending below the body profile. Bird shall be as short as proportionately possible.

SHAPE: Chest broad, round and prominent, back wide at the shoulders, short and well rounded, not flattened, body to be deep, short, broad and cobby with rump broad enough to support the wings. The shape shall be well rounded in a graceful curve when viewed from any angle. The legs to be Located in the direct center of profile.

STATION: Proud and erect, with head held high, though not strained or stretched as from fright. Eye and wing juncture with body shall be on a perpendicular line. The tail to be curved upwards at an angle that would level at the bird's neck at approximately one third the distance from the low point of the back to the top of the skull, or approximately one inch. The flights to rest as flat as possible on the tail.

HEAD: Shall be of medium length, approximately two inches from front to back on a level line of the eye and approximately one and one-eighth inches wide. Top of skull to be well rounded. Curve of head shall be graceful from beak to neck.

BEAK: The beak shall be short and broad, approximately five-eighths of an inch from the feather line above the wattle to tip of beak. Dark colored birds to have dark horn beaks, light colored birds to have flesh colored beaks. Both types to be free of any discoloration’s. The wattles shall be small of fine texture. Recessive red to have light horn beaks.

EYE: To be very bright and prominent, iris, shading from orange to orange-red, with plenty of luster. Whites to have either "bull" colored or orange eyes. Eye to be approximately 5/8 inches from top of skull to the center of the eye.

CERE: To be fine and even in texture, with color shading to blend in with the color of the bird so as to be as inconspicuous as possible. Ceres on whites to be light red.

NECK: Of medium length or approximately three inches from the low point of the back to the top of the skull. It shall graduate in fullness from top to chest. No distinct gullet, but not pinched at the throat. Neck shall be tilted slightly back with no trace of neck shaking or over styling. The "stout bull-neck" is most desirable.

WINGS: Short, deep tightly folded, carried well cocked up. Wing butts shall blend smoothly with the chest, with the tips lying upon the tail. Flight feathers to be short and broad. Covert feathers to meet on the back so there is no hole or open back showing.

KEEL: Shall be as deep as possible, fairly short and curved with the contour of the body from front to back.

TAIL: Very short and broad webbed. To be folded tightly. Tail to be curved in a graceful curve. Tip to be approximately one inch above the low point of the back. Tail shall be approximately one-quarter inch longer than the wing flight.

LEGS AND FEET: The legs to be approximately two inches in length. To be very straight, with thighs well shown. The legs, feet and toes to be a bright red and free of any feathering. The toes to be of fine texture and well spread out. Dark horn colored nails to be on dark colored birds and light flesh colored nails on light colored birds. Legs to be as wide apart as possible to keep the bird in proportion. FEATHER COLOR: Color in all classes is to be very rich, lustrous and pure with much sheen. All self-colored birds to be evenly colored throughout. Where two or more colors are present on the same feather, these colors should be in sharp contrast to each other.

CONDITION: Feathers to be medium hard and smooth. Body to be well filled with firm flesh.

STANDARD COLOR CHART FOR THE MODENA

STANDARD PATTERNS

There are four basic color patterns in the Modena breed: barred, checked or tri-marked, T-pattern, and tearless is the fourth alternative (allele) but is seldom seen.

The desirable bar pattern has a clear solid colored wing with two evenly curved bars, to be as wide as possible, starting over the back and curving down to the bottom of the wing. The back edge of each bar is edged with a distinct, fine pencil line. This edging is indistinct in ash-red birds.

The checkered or tri-marked shows the same two bars except they are irregular or saw-toothed along the back edge. Each feather on the shoulder portion of the wing between the wing butts and the bars is checked with portions of the ground color and the bar color, the two colors being separated by a fine V-shaped edging. This edging is also indistinct in the ash red birds.

The T-pattern shows none of the basic ground color on the wing—the whole wing being the same color of the bar of the color family. The wing can be clear, laced or T-checked. The lacing should be distinct and of the same width on each feather. The T-checked birds should show this same lacing along with a definite wedge of the bar edging color on each feather.

The tail bar of each color shall match the smooth spread pigment of the individual bird. Blue Intense - Black tail bar. Blue dilute - Dun tail bar. Brown Intense - Brown tail bar. Brown dilute - Khaki tail bar. Ash red - Light ash or lavender, however, it is usually indistinguishable.

 

PIGMENTATION

There are three basic color pigments in Modenas: Blue, Brown and Ash Red. In all three color pigments, the ground color becomes darker as we progress from the barred patternto the tri or check pattern to the T-pattern. The following color chart is arranged in such a manner as to show the relationship to our Modena colors to each other in regard to pigment and pattern. The color descriptions apply to both Schietti and Gazzi with the exception of the white on the Gazzi body.

THE BLUE FAMILY

BLUE (Blue pigment - Intense - Bar pattern) Head color to be a rich even shade of medium blue-gray. Neck feathers a bit darker shade showing a rich sheen of primarily green and secondary purple. the wing feathers to be a lighter shade of blue-gray with the color carried out through the secondary and primary feathers and blending in with the blackish tips of these feathers. When folded, you should see two bars of rich bronze with a fine pencil line of black. The lower back and rump should be an even shade of medium blue-gray. The tail is a bit darker shade of blue-gray.

BRONZE TRI (Blue pigment - Intense - Check pattern) The head, neck and body similar to the blue, but a darker shade with the neck feathers showing plenty of rich green sheen. The tri markings on the wings to be open, and carried evenly to the wing butts. Each feather showing portions of bronze and blue with a black V separating the two colors.

BRONZE (Blue pigment - Intense - T-pattern) Head and neck to be a deep purplish color shading to black showing plenty of rich green sheen and luster. Breast, back and body feathers to be a bluish black color throughout. Tail is blue-black. (Bronze color on head markings and on fluff under tail is permitted on Gazzi, but not preferred). wing color to be a deep, clear, rich shade of bronze. Flights to have bronze color running on both sides of quill and blending into the black of the tips. Quills to be black. As in all T-patterns, there are three divisions: Clear, laced and T-checked. The clear is described above. The laced has each bronze wing feather laced in black. In the T-checked variety, every feather has the black lacing plus a wedge or check of black.

BLACK (Blue pigment - Intense - Spread factor) Color over entire body, head, neck and wings to be coal black with plenty of sheen showing throughout, but especially on the neck. The black should be even throughout and should extend down into the under feathers.

SILVER (Blue pigment - Dilute - Bar pattern) Head color a rich shade of light neutral gray shading to fawn. Neck feathers a bit darker shade of the same color. The wing feathers should be a lighter shade of gray-fawn with color carried well out through the primary and secondary feathers blending in with the dun colored tips. When folded, you should see two bars of rich sulphur edged with a pencil line of dun. Tail a bit darker shade of gray-fawn.

SULPHUR TRI (Blue pigment - Dilute - Check or Tri pattern) The head, neck and body a medium shade of gray-fawn, a bit darker than the color on the silvers. Tri markings on the wings to be open and carried evenly to the wing butts. Each feather on the wing showing portions of sulphur and gray-fawn divided by a V marking of dun color.

SULPHUR (Blue pigment - Dilute - T-pattern) The head, neck and body and tail color to be a deep rich dun color. Wing color to be a deep rich shade of sulphur. (Sulphur color on the head and fluff under tail of Gazzi is permitted, but not to be preferred). Three divisions as in all T-patterns: clear sulphur, dun laced and dun checked.

DUN (Blue pigment - Dilute - Spread factor) Color over entire body, head, neck and wings to be a rich, even shade of brownish steel gray throughout.

THE BROWN FAMILY

SILVER-DUN (Brown pigment -Intense - Bar pattern) The body and wing color is a light clear brownish-gray shading to brown on the head and hackle. The bars on the wings are rich russet-red color with a pencil edging of brown. RUSSET-TRI ( Brown pigment - Intense - Check or Tri markings) The head, neck and body color a clear, medium shade of brownish-gray, a bit darker than on the silver dun. Tri markings on the wings to be open and carried to the wing butts showing portions of russet and brownish-gray with a brown V on each feather separating the two colors.

RUSSET (Brown pigment - Intense - T-pattern) The head, neck and body color a medium shade of brownish-gray, a bit darker than on the russet-tri. The wing color is a plain, rich russet-red color. Three classes: plain, brown laced or brown checked.

BROWN (Brown pigment - Intense - Spread factor) The head, neck, body and wings and tail should be an even shade of rich chocolate brown.

SILVER-CREAM (Brown pigment - Dilute - Bar pattern) Body, head, neck, wing and tail color a soft tan-gray shading to khaki on the neck and neck hackle. The bars on the wings are a clear shade of ochre with an edging of khaki.

OCHRE-TRI (Brown pigment - Dilute - Check or Tri pattern) Body, head, neck, wing and tail color a soft tan-gray blend shading to khaki on

the neck and neck hackle. A bit darker than on he silver-cream. Tri markings on the wings to be open and carried evenly to the wing butts showing portions of the tan-gray and ochre separated by a V of khaki on each feather.

OCHRE (Brown pigment - Dilute - T-pattern) Body, head, neck and wing and tail color a medium shade of tan-gray shading to khaki on the head and hackle. Color a bit darker than on the ochre tri. The wing color is plain ochre. Three divisions: plain, laced or checked with khaki.

KHAKI (Brown pigment - Dilute - Spread factor) The head, neck, wing and body and tail should be an even shade of khaki.

THE ASH RED FAMILY

MEALY (Ash Red pigment - Intense - Bar pattern) The body and wing color a clear lavender-gray shading to a rich claret-red on the head and hackle. The bars are clear claret-red. The tail is an even shade of lavender-gray with as little flecking as possible. (The edging on the bars and the tail bar is not apparent of the bird.) RED CHECKER (Ash Red pigment - Intense - Check or Tri pattern) The body color a clear, medium dark lavender-gray shading to a rich claret-red on the head and hackle. Checkering on the wings to be open and carried evenly to the wing butts showing on each wing feather, portions of lavender-gray and claret-red. The tail is lavender-gray with as little black flecking as possible.

CREAM (Ash Red pigment - Dilute - Bar pattern) The body and wing color a very soft cream-gray shading to a rich golden cream on the head and hackle. Wing bars a rich golden cream. Tail a very pale cream-gray shading to ash white with as little flecking as possible.

YELLOW CHECKER (Ash Red pigment - Dilute - Check or Tri pattern) The body color soft cream-gray shading to a rich golden cream on the head and hackle. Body color a bit darker than on the breams. Checkering on the sings to be open and carried evenly to the wing butts. Each feather on the wing showing portions of cream-gray shading to ash white with as little flecking as possible.

OTHER COLORS

RED (Red pigment - Intense - Recessive red factor) A deep even shade of red, more of a chestnut, leaning a bit toward blood red over all portions. Color carried down to the skin with feather shafts colored red. Should show plenty of sheen on the neck. Beak and toe nails light horn color. or faded color. Color lacking sheen. Colors blending together to produce impure or smutty effect. Bronze cast on body, neck and head. Any off colored feathers in white or colored sections. Markings and patterns - Foul feathers, uneven markings in Gazzi. Bib too deep or too far back on Gazzi. Uneven lacing or checkering on T-pattern birds. Lack of lacing on laced Argents giving the bird a washed out appearance. Any sign of ticking on wings of barred birds. Traces of third bar. Narrow bars. Closed patterns on Tri colored birds. Wings - Prominent wing butts. Scissored wings. Open over back, wing coverts not covering back well. Wings not lying flat on tail. Tail - Awry tail. Tail too long. Broad tail, not folded tightly. Legs and feet - Cow hocked or buckling legs. Legs too short or too long. Toes not well spread. Unmatched toe nail color. Legs not placed in center of body. Legs not straight. Condition and feathering - Loose feathers or long feathers. Any tail or wing feather missing due to molt. Excessive trimming. Soft feather. Stained or soiled feathers. White above the vent under the tail area. Loose, twisted feathers on neck or near cheeks. Soft spongy body condition, lacking firm solid flesh condition. Feathers on lower leg or feet. Noticeable cleft in feathers on breast.

DISQUALIFICATIONS

White, broken bull or unmatched eyes. (Bull eyes allowed in whites only). Split keel, completely white primary or secondary wing feathers, completely white tail feathers (except in whites). Neck shaking while being judged, wings carried below the tail. Extreme trimming. Birds sick or in otherwise poor condition physically. Faking in any manner beyond normal trimming and cleaning. Noticeable cleft in feathers on breast. Birds showing other than true Modena type.

Disqualification shall consist of white flights, bull eyes in other than white schietti and other than obvious Modena faults and so judged.

 

^^^^^^^Theres the NPA standard if it helps anyone.

[PigeonClarke]

 

No you can win if ya dont sulk and moan about IT and concentrate on your own stock. If the you find the winning birds are the bigger ones then breed the bigger ones. This is were the crossing comes in. Cross a breed in for a feature then breed the unwanted features back out keeping the feature you want. Its complicated and this is why I for one like the bigger birds. But even with this the modena from what I remember should be 9" tall and 8" long. If a bird is taller or longer its a fault but 1 fault wont stop a pigeon winning

 

 

[PigeonClarke]

Has a new standard being drawn up?

[Guest]

The Show King is a Much bigger Bird than Modena and holds its beak out insteads of tucked up on its chest there just a totaly Different Breed and not aggresive as Modenas are very easy to tell a King from Modena in the Flesh but the one your showing is a German Modena which is different again here is the  Standard

 

Description of

The Show King Pigeon

The official picture is the ideal for station and conformation of the exhibition King.

 

THIS WRITTEN STANDARD IS TO DESCRIBE THE IDEAL KING:

I WEIGHTS & MEASUREMENTS:

 

A) WEIGHTS

1. All ages ...........30 to 37 ounces.

 

MEASUREMENTS

1. HEIGHT.......Eleven & three quarter inches (11¾”)

2. WIDTH........Extremity of chest, five and one half inches (5½”)

3. DEPTH.......The depth to be four and one half inches (4½”)

4. LENGTH....The tip of the tail to the chest extremity, nine and one half inches (9½”)

 

II SCALE OF POINTS:

 

A) WEIGHT..........8

BEAK...............5..........Short, stout; to be carried in a horizontal position.

C) WATTLE..........2..........Small, smooth, powdered or frosted in colour, in keeping with size of face.

D) HEAD...............9..........Moderately large and broad with skull well rounded in proportion to a full neck and broad body. Must not be pinched above wattles or snaky in appearance.

E) EYES................3..........Prominent, round, and bright, set approximately three fifths forward from the back of the skull.

F) EYE CERE........4.........Perfectly round, fine in texture, not over one sixteenth inch wide to be visible between the eye and feathers, and beet red in colour.

G) NECK...............5.........Moderately stout or thick to balance with broad shoulders and well rounded body of the bird, to be carried perpendicularly. Back of the neck enters the shoulders as near as possible on a line with the hocks. Beak should recede slightly from the extremity of the protruding breast. Neck should not cut back excessively under the beak. Cocks should show more massive neck than hens. Neither shall show any evidence of thinness.

H) BREAST...........8........The breast is that part of a pigeon lying or being in front of the legs and extending to the lower part of the neck, but does not include that part of the body around the keel, back of the legs. The breast shall be prominent, broad and well rounded, showing well beyond the wing butts. It shall be carried symmetrically with an erect station of the bird, with the lower portion of the front on a horizontal line with the rear of the keel.

I) BODY...............8........Short, broad, firm, moderately deep and well rounded.

J) KEEL................8........To be straight and centered between the legs and as long as possible in a short, well-rounded body, curving in a rocker shape, to end as close to the vent as possible.

K) BACK.............5........Short and broad from shoulders to tail. It must not taper too quickly before reaching the rump, but curve smoothly into the neck, and the tail must be at least 25 degrees.

L) WINGS...........7........To be held snugly to the body and lying smoothly on the rump and tail, the tips spread approximately one inch apart and approximately ¾ of an inch shorter than a reasonably short tail. The wing tips may touch and must be in the centre of the tail. The wing butts are to be well covered by the breast feathers. Ten primary feathers are the correct number.

M) TAIL.............7.........To be short in proportion to a short body. It is to be approximately one and one half feathers wide at the tip of the tail, tapering smoothly from a thick and broad rump. Twelve primary feathers are the correct number. The tail is to be carried at an angle above horizontal to complete the bottom curve formed by the body and breast. It is also to be an agreement with the Standard Picture, but not so high as to cause crossing or drooping of the wing tips.

N) LEGS.........10.........To be straight and stout so as to give the bird an erect appearance, and should be set as near as possible in line to intersect the back of the neck at a point which is on a horizontal line with the base of the beak. Legs to be of such length as to show two and five eighth inches clearance between the keel and the floor. Width between the shanks to be two and five eighth inches. Shanks to be beet red in colour and free from feathers.

O) TOES.........3..........Straight, clean and well spread; beet red in colour.

P) PLUMAGE..10.......Feathering to be close and smooth but not as hard as a flying homer’s. It should have a little give when the bird is handled. It shall have smooth feathering under the vent. Birds must be in full natural plumage.

1. Cocks should be masculine in appearance.

2. Hens should be feminine in appearance.

3. Birds of unkempt appearance, or birds that refuse to show good station or proper manners, may be cut up to 10 points. These 10 points to be floating and not upset the original 100 point total.

Q) COLORED BIRDS ..To be cut from one to ten points for faulty color when judged in their own classes. These ten points to be floating and not to upset the original 100 point total.

 

III RECOGNISED STANDARD COLORS:

 

SOLID PATTERNS

A) DESCRIPTION OF THE WHITE KING

1. BEAK - Pinkish white

2. EYES - Bull

3. EYE CERE - Beet red

4. TOE NAILS - White

5. COLOR - Pure white and free from off colored feathers

 

DESCRIPTION OF THE RED KING (RECESSIVE)

1. BEAK - Flesh preferred, horn permissible

2. EYES - Bright orange

3. EYE CERE - Red

4. TOE NAILS - Flesh preferred, horn permissible

5. COLOR - A rich horse chestnut over the entire surface with richness of color carrying down as near the skin as possible, showing no foreign color or ticking

 

C) DESCRIPTION OF THE YELLOW KING (DILUTE OF RED)

1. BEAK - Flesh preferred, horn permissible

2. EYES - Bright orange

3. EYE CERE - Red

4. TOE NAILS - Flesh preferred, but horn permissible

5. COLOR - A dark yellow over the entire surface with richness of color carrying down as near the skin as possible, showing no foreign color or ticking

 

D) DESCRIPTION OF THE BLACK KING

1. BEAK - Black

2. EYES - Bright orange

3. EYE CERE - Plum to gray

4. TOE NAILS - Black

5. COLOR - A rich solid jet black with a brilliant sheen, with richness of color carrying down as near the skin as possible, showing no foreign color or ticking. The neck and upper part of the breast are to show a green metallic lustre.

 

E) DESCRIPTION OF THE DUN KING (DILUTE OF BLACK)

1. BEAK - Horn color

2. EYES - Bright orange

3. EYE CERE - Plum to gray

4. TOE NAILS - Horn color

5. COLOR - A gun-metal color over the entire surface.

 

F) DESCRIPTION OF THE BROWN KING

1. BEAK - Horn color

2. EYES - Pearl

3. EYE CERE - Beet red to red

4. TOE NAILS - Horn color

5. COLOR - A rich chocolate or cocoa over the entire surface with color carrying down as near as the skin as possible, showing no foreign color or ticking.

 

BARRED PATTERNS

 

G) DESCRIPTION OF THE SILVER KING (BROWN BAR)

1. BEAK - Horn color

2. EYES - Pearl

3. EYE CERE - Beet red to red

4. TOE NAILS - Horn color

5. COLOR - A clear silvery blue. The neck is still a darker shade of silvery blue with a brilliant greenish metallic lustre. Wings show two well defined bars running in a curved V-shape across the wing coverts. The bars to be dark chocolate in color, approximately an inch apart at the bottom of the wing coverts and come nearly together as they approach the top of the wing. A similar dark bar approximately three-quarters of an inch wide at tip of tail. Silver is preferred, but light gray is permissible over the rump.

 

H) DESCRIPTION OF THE BLUE KING

1. BEAK - Black

2. EYES - Bright Orange

3. EYE CERE - Plum to gray

4. TOE NAILS - Black

5. COLOR - A rich even shade of sky blue. The neck is still a darker shade of clear blue with a brilliant greenish metallic lustre. Wings show two well defined bars running in a curved V-shape across the wing coverts. The bars are to be black color, approximately an inch apart at the bottom of the wing coverts and come nearly together as they approach the top of the wing. A similar black bar approximately three quarters of an inch wide at tip of tail. Blue is preferred, but light gray is permissible over the rump.

 

I) DESCRIPTION OF THE SILVER BAR KING (DILUTE OF BLUE)

1. BEAK - Horn color

2. EYES - Bright orange

3. EYE CERE - Light plum to gray

4. TOE NAILS - Horn colour

5. COLOR - A rich shade of silvery gray. The neck is a darker shade of grey with a brilliant greenish metallic lustre. Wings show two well defined bars running in a curved V-shape across the wing coverts. The bars are to be dark dun color, approximately an inch apart at the bottom of the wing coverts and come nearly together as they approach the top of the wing. A similar dark, dun bar approximately three quarters of an inch at tip of tail. Silvery-gray is preferred, light silvery-gray is permissible over the rump.

 

) J) DESCRIPTION OF THE ASH RED BAR KING

1. BEAK - Black color

2. EYES - Bright orange

3. EYE CERE - Gray

4. TOE NAILS - Black color

5. COLOR - A rich even shade of ash-gray. The neck is red with a brilliant greenish metallic lustre. Wings show two well defined bars running in a curved V-shape across the wing coverts. The bars to be a chestnut red, approximately an inch apart at the bottom of the wing coverts and come nearly together as they approach the top of the wing. The darker tail bar is absent. Black or brown flecking is permitted in wing flights and tail rectrices. Ash-gray is preferred but light silvery-gray is permissible over the rump.

 

K) DESCRIPTION OF THE ASH YELLOW BAR KING (DILUTE OF ASH RED)

1. BEAK - Horn color

2. EYES - Bright orange

3. EYE CERE - Gray

4. TOE NAILS - Horn color

5. COLOR - A rich even shade of light gray. The neck is yellow with a brilliant greenish metallic lustre. Wings to show two well defined bars running in a curved V-shape across the wing coverts. The bars to be yellow approximately an inch apart at the bottom of the wing covert and come nearly together as they approach the top of the wing. The darker tail bar is absent. Dilute color flecks are permitted in wing flights and tail rectrices. Light gray is preferred but light silvery gray is permissible over the rump.

 

L) DESCRIPTION OF THE A.O.C. KING

1. Any color or pattern not recognised in the American King Club standard may be shown as a A.O.C. King.

2. Any deviation from this standard shall require point cuts in proportion to the extent of the defect.

 

M) DESCRIPTION OF THE RARE COLOR CLASS KING

1. All reduced, almond and faded, regardless of color pattern, all barred and barless regardless of color, not covered in other standard color classes. All foregoing to be free of stray white feathers.

2. Other colors and patterns admissible to this class as they may occur: these may include but not limited to recessive opal, powder blue, milky, whiteside, turbit-marked (saddle), pale, toy stencil, bronze, and etc.

3. Show Secretaries and/or their representatives to determine admissibility at each show.

 

N) DESCRIPTION OF THE CHECK COLOR CLASS KING

1. Includes open checks, T-pattern checks, and saturated t-pattern or velvets.

2. Whatever the type of checkering, it is to be even throughout the wing shields. Checkering may or may not be visible on the breast and hocks. True silver checks may exhibit a copper-colored or gold sheen on the crop area, but green is preferred. The tail bars and checkering will be the same as in other, same color bar classes. According to the color of the check, proper color is preferred with light gray to silvery-gray permissible over the rump. Any white or foul feathering on the remainder of the bird is considered an A.O.C. and shall be entered in that class.

 

O) DESCRIPTION OF THE GRIZZLE KING

1. BAR: (Barred Grizzle

) The head, body and wing shields should be an even peppery combination of white and the base color, with neither color dominating the other. The flights and tail should be of darker hue with grizzle showing. The wing and tail bar to be the same as all standard bar classes.

2. CHECK: (Tortoiseshell)

The head, body, and tail, as in the barred grizzle. The wing shield shows a muted checker which can have a bronzing effect in some cases. The base color to be the same as all standard check classes.

3. SPREAD: (Mottled)

The head, body, and tail may be DARK, the color to be spotted all over with individual white feathers, or LIGHT, white dominating with individual colored feathers scattered throughout the entire bird. A tigering or alternating mixture of color and white feathers is most desirable and any bas color is allowed.

4. OTHER (No color points awarded)

The beak, toe nails, eye cere and eye color to be the same color as all standard colour descriptions. White flights, white tail feathers, or large patches of white in the bar and check grizzle classes are permissible, but not desirable and shall be shown as grizzles.

 

P) DESCRIPTION OF THE INDIGO KING

 

(a) ANDALUSIAN KING.

1. BEAK - Blue black

2. EYES - Bright orange

3. EYE CERE - Plum to gray

4. TOE NAILS - Blue black

5. COLOR - A steel gray with light and dark shades acceptable, with black lacing throughout. The neck is a darker shade with a brilliant greenish metallic lustre. Black blotches and any rust showing is considered a fault; must have an even lacing of black. Homozygous Indigo Spread may appear lighter in body, with some black lacing. The head and neck may be black.

 

( INDIGO BAR KING

1. BEAK - Dark steel gray

2. EYES - Bright orange

3. EYE CERE - Plum to gray

4. TOE NAILS - Dark steel gray

5. COLOR - A steel gray throughout. The neck is a shade darker with a brilliant greenish metallic lustre. Wings show two well defined bars running in a curved V-shape across the wing coverts. The bars to be a rust color, approximately an inch apart at the bottom of the wing coverts and come nearly together as they approach the top of the wing. A tail bar is absent. Steel gray is preferred, but light gray is permissible over the rump.

 

© INDIGO CHECK KING

1. BEAK - Dark horn color

2. EYES - Bright orange

3. EYE CERE - Plum to gray

4. TOE NAILS - Dark horn color

5. COLOR - A steel gray throughout. The neck is a shade darker with a brilliant greenish metallic lustre. Includes open checks, T-pattern checks and saturated T-patterns or velvets. A rust checkering shall be even throughout the wing shields. Checkering may or may not be visible on the breast and hocks. A tail bar is absent. Steel gray is preferred, but light grey is permissible over the rump. Homozygous Indigo Check mimics Ash Red (look alikes) and may have a slight bluing around the head and neck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

    

[PigeonClarke]

Nice king steph

[Guest]

Hi Lee thats Mums bird a youngster last year but won 6 NPAs but only 2 can count towards it being a Champion

[Guest beautyhomer]

 

How does it keep people from winning, the better birds win and if there crosses then maybe the losing fanciers should try cross there stock. There is very few birds around that are exactly to standard so by crossing them you try to match the standard. Its a well known and perfectly legal part of showing pigeons. And after all breeds are created by crossing different breeds.

 

About ten years ago there was a big row when Genuine Homers were used to increase the size of Exhibition Tipplers.Due to the increase in size it was found that the correct ring size for the breed was becoming to small.Northern Counties TTC took it upon themselves to move from a B size to a C size ring without going through the NPA.

When some of these birds were exhibited at Southport someone noticed they had the wrong ring size and put in a complaint.The show officials had to disqualify all of the tipplers with these NCTT rings on.Thats when the proverbial hit the fan!

 

[Guest]

 

How does it keep people from winning, the better birds win and if there crosses then maybe the losing fanciers should try cross there stock. There is very few birds around that are exactly to standard so by crossing them you try to match the standard. Its a well known and perfectly legal part of showing pigeons. And after all breeds are created by crossing different breeds.

 

Agree totally and although many fanciers argue that the modern versions of breeds are either too big or different in style if we want to win in the show pen we have to move with the times and produce birds which comply with current trends,I have myself experimented alittle this year by crossing and the results have been very pleasing.

[PigeonClarke]

 

Agree totally and although many fanciers argue that the modern versions of breeds are either too big or different in style if we want to win in the show pen we have to move with the times and produce birds which comply with current trends,I have myself experimented alittle this year by crossing and the results have been very pleasing.

 

Thats because when they see others progressing they get worried

[Guest beautyhomer]

 

Agree totally and although many fanciers argue that the modern versions of breeds are either too big or different in style if we want to win in the show pen we have to move with the times and produce birds which comply with current trends,I have myself experimented alittle this year by crossing and the results have been very pleasing.

 

Does that young show racer of yours that won at Southport have any American Show Racer in it.When I had a look at it,its head reminded me of one.

[PigeonClarke]

 

If it looks like a modena enough to convince the judge then it is a modena.If you want to introduce a new colour into a breed then you must cross.After several generations you will be back to the original breed as near as damit.

 

Very true beautyhomer.

[Steve0]

Lol i only asked  ;D

[Steve0]

The shows ruin good breeds in my opinion

[chickadee]

The shows ruin good breeds in my opinion

 

Isn't there such a thing about breeding too much of the original type out of the bird that it eventualy weakens the strain?

[THE FIFER]

 

So is there a lot of modenas at the park now?

 

 

they had a few and a lot of fantails, and other animals, pigs, hens, etc, but it closed down but still think there is a few pigeons yet, not been up for a while,

 

 

[chickadee]

 

 

they had a few and a lot of fantails, and other animals, pigs, hens, etc, but it closed down but still think there is a few pigeons yet, not been up for a while,

 

 

Must have a jaunt to the park sometime and have a look.

[THE FIFER]

 

Must have a jaunt to the park sometime and have a look.

 

 

 

the pigeon cote at letham glen has closed as well, i had a chat with one of the councilors he was on about the streeters in town, i told him they should have kept the cote in the glen as lots of the streeters went there and if they have a place for them then they could keep them under control, taking away eggs etc, but if they are nesting on buildings etc they are not easy to control, better keeping some of the pigeon towers open, there are still a few around yet which are closed.

 

 

[chickadee]

 

 

 

the pigeon cote at letham glen has closed as well, i had a chat with one of the councilors he was on about the streeters in town, i told him they should have kept the cote in the glen as lots of the streeters went there and if they have a place for them then they could keep them under control, taking away eggs etc, but if they are nesting on buildings etc they are not easy to control, better keeping some of the pigeon towers open, there are still a few around yet which are closed.

 

 

Aye it would make more sense tae keep them under control.

[gary7978@btinternet.com]

no serious modena breeder crosses  kings into modenas,as there is nothing to gain from doing this. the offspring will always look like a king.If you simply want to increase the size, there are French birds readily available.As for small cobby birds most breeders still breed them,but dispose of them,as they are of no value for showing or breeding show birds. (just pets)

[kiateapigeons]

no serious modena breeder crosses  kings into modenas,as there is nothing to gain from doing this. the offspring will always look like a king.If you simply want to increase the size, there are French birds readily available.As for small cobby birds most breeders still breed them,but dispose of them,as they are of no value for showing or breeding show birds. (just pets)

 

I have medium cobby birds the ones you used to see a few years ago and when I came back into modenas I was told my birds were too small and will never do anything,I was amazed at how much the modenas had grown and asked a fancier who was showing at the modena club are you taking the p*ss he went what you mean I went they are far too big for modenas he went know thats how they have to be now I just looked and shook my head they were the same size of a king maybe bigger, I now have two teams a  ones just a bit bigger than my others  but all the rest are the old type and the ones that I do the winning with mostly are the old type because the new types dont seem to ball like they used to and are getting very course I have got the old standard in my head and wont follow suit,  a few top fanciers are fetching the size down its like fashion comes and goes  

[Guest bigbok]

the smaller ones you will have seen wil have been german modenas the english modena has grown considerabley over the last 25 years but so have most breeds my breed has almost doubled in size