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Posted
Get your self some reasonible birds. Take your time with them, train them well, pick your races, dont try to send them all everywhere. And make sure they are healthy before you send them, the most common problem is over feeding, but remember a over weight healthy pigeon will get home. An over weight unhealthy one is finished before you even start.

 

Sounds like good advice to me!

Posted

as a keen new starter, youll want to run rather than walk, but thats only natural, and it shows how keen you are [which is an asset to begin with], but at the moment i would just concentrate on getting them flying well round the loft, getting them used to the basket i.e. feeding and watering in the basket now and again, and keeping their confidence in you [which i think they have]once theve been ranging and are about 10 or so weeks old , you can  start tossing them, take them hungry and get them right in when they come home, and reward them, you can start off about 5 miles then work on further5.10. 15. 20,miles keep them at that for a while, till they just dissapear when you release them, lots of peple train yb differantly, but one thing i will say .is when you do start ,keep them going,,, i used to train up to 50 miles , but again thats up to the individual,,thers another old saying which is hard to adhere to,, is never put all your eggs in the one basket, but with your keenness you wont be long in picking it up. best of luck westy :) :) :) :)

Posted

Jimmy

 

We don't start anywhere near five miles, a mile from the loft is our starting point and we train them at a much younger age.

 

Last year we had them down the road just for a mile at about 40 days.

 

Westy, if you can work this out with your Dad, don't put all your birds up together, if your Dad has a mobile, you stay at the loft and get your dad to put a few birds up, when you get them back give him a call to release the next few.  If your first batch take a long time or come in split up, there may be something going for them on the way home , he can always bring the other birds home and try again the next day.

 

Over cautious may be, but we hear so many times of birds vanishing off the face of the plant a few miles from the loft.

Posted

westy son,

taking well over from me now,! carry on doing all the hard work you are constantly doing, & carry on listening to all these experienced fanciers & as i can see :o  you are doing 100% A OK!

westy phoned me up yesterday while i was at work, (a wee bit worried) :-/  saying "dad! how long do the young birds roam for?" as 2 have dissapeared for an hour?

i said dont worry (but i was worried too) they will be back? :-/

5 MINS AFTER MARTIN PHONED ME UP SAYING THEY ARE BOTH BACK! ;D

Posted
Health is the main thing for me. ( The flying vet's Pigeon health management ) by Dr Colin Walker. Could save you a lot of heartache. worth every penny.

 

I totaly agree peterpau  ;)

Posted

westy, once you get them going, and trained etc, after the racing starts, theres a few wee tricks that can be played, to make them keen, but as all say above , the birds have to be fit and healthy, [which i know yours are] best of luck to you , youve got the main ingrediant,,,your dead keen :) :) :)

Posted

a good tip is for a yb sitting ,especialy the longer races, is to put about 5 eggs under it, take the cock away for a day ,and watch it trying to tuck its eggs under it, it gets them under one side then they pop out the other , it then tucks them in that side and so on, it makes the yb keen as it thinks its got to look after these eggs itself

 

or racing to its first hatch, again with the cock away for a day and even a night

 

widowhood cock for longer races ,especially an older bird , after not seeing its hen for a few weeks ,turn the bowl and put 2 .3 day two ybs in the,day b4 the race marking, but keep renewing the yb as the cock will have no soft food, it gets keen trying to fed them.

it doesnt allways work ,but has worked for me  :) :) :)

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