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Posted

Hi fanciers,

I have raised and raced homers for years but have recently decided to pick a breed to raise and show. My choice is Frillbacks. Have have had quite a time locating some breeders near enough to drive to and check out the birds before purchase. My question is what do I look for specific to good show Frillbacks?

Thanks

Carol

MsPigeon ;)

Posted

Frill backs are beautiful looking birds if abit highly strung.You are right not too many people keep them now,as for type you need to get hold of a copy of the american breed standard which I can't help you with but here is the email for the Brittish frillback club who might be able to give you a copy of our standard and more info on the breed.

pandallen@yahoo.co.uk

Posted
Here are a  couple of photos of them

 

Nice birds. Are these your own or just pics you have?

 

We considered frillbacks but heard they were a bit aggressive :-/

Posted

 

Nice birds. Are these your own or just pics you have?

 

We considered frillbacks but heard they were a bit aggressive :-/

 

Just some photos I had.Yes very nice birds though.

Posted

 

Nice birds. Are these your own or just pics you have?

 

We considered frillbacks but heard they were a bit aggressive :-/

 

Wouldn't say they are agressive like modenas can be,highly strung/abit wild would be a better description but they are beautiful to look at.

Posted

 

Wouldn't say they are agressive like modenas can be,highly strung/abit wild would be a better description but they are beautiful to look at.

 

Chrissy

Do you mean easily stressed or flighty, can they free fly?

Posted

A bit more about these birds,

 

RECOGNIZED COLORS

GRIZZLE – Red, Yellow, Blue, Silver.

SELF – White, Black.

A.O.C. – (Any Other Color) Includes any birds splashed, mottled or any color not recognized.

 

ORIGIN

Home Unknown. In the first half of the 18th Century there was isolated breeding in England and Germany. The breed was widespread in Belgium and Holland when it was introduced into Germany. The red and blue grizzle showed up first in Hungary. From there they found their way through all of Austria, then Germany. Today the breeding is widespread. The white crested has been present in the United States since 1920. The colored varieties were imported from Europe in 1951.

 

SIZE

Body carried slightly horizontal and low in stance. Slightly larger than most Germany Toy breeds, having larger wings and longer tail. The length of wing and tail feathers to be in proportion to the rest of the body size.

 

HEAD

Shell crested and plainheaded are present in all colors. The following is the point breakdown of 15 points for head areas:

CRESTED: Beak and wattle, 2; Eye, 3; Head (shape), 2; Shell Crest, 8 = 15 points.

PLAINHEAD: Beak and wattle, 2; Eye, 3; Head (shape), 10 = 15 points.

 

PLAINHEAD

The head should be large, but in proportion to the size of the body. The shape should be slightly oval with a well rounded forehead. There should be a definite stop of the forehead at the wattle.

 

SHELL CRESTED

Shell shaped, positioned up on the back of the head, high and erect, full with feathers, thick, and have small rosettes on each side of the head. The crest feathers should stand straight up, not hugging the head, and be even across at its base.

 

EYES

Not large, located in a direct line with the beak. Red or orange colored iris is desired in all color varieties. Pearl, bull, cracked, gravel eyes are major faults and will be disqualified.

 

BEAK

The beak is long and slender, held straight out, curved on the tip, frequently the upper beak is slightly longer than the lower beak. Beak color is dark on red and blue, black on blacks, horn or light on yellow and silver, and flesh colored on whites. Wattle is thin, small and covered with white powder on all colors.

 

BODY

Generally boaty in appearance.

 

NECK

Seemingly short, protrudes entirely from the shoulder. Has very little throat, but well cut away.

 

BREAST

Broad, nicely plump, somewhat set forward (protruding).

 

BACK

Broad shoulders, slightly arched, sloping off gently.

 

LEGS

Short, with a muscular squat appearance, powerful.

 

TAIL

Wide feathers, rather long and borne relatively loose. The tail should not exceed over the width of two feathers. Almost but not dragging the ground. Each feather must have a definite wave or wrinkle.

 

WING

Wide and strong. The body is well covered. Wide primaries, the extreme end rest on the tail. The wing tips should not cross but form a "V" at the tail. Each primary and flight feather must have a definite wave or wrinkle. Wing and tail feathers should not be excessively long in length.

 

MUFF

Muff or foot feathering is preferred, two to three inches in length, full and forming an arc shape. Feathers of the hock and foot feathering must have a definite wave or wrinkle, the feather ending with a curl or frill.

 

FRILL

(Curls) – Most important factor in judging. The feathers should not be so fluffy or straight that a well defined curl can’t be formed. The frill should cover the entire wing shield, dense on the shoulders, so that no open areas stand out. The last row of frill, toward the tail, should run the entire length of the wing, and be long in length. Also, of great importance is the size of curl, the form, and the curl ending. The feather should be long in length, thick and the feather ending should form a closed curl ending with a round ringlet at the end. Feather curl should also be present at the ends of the foot feathers or muff and at the ends of the hock feathers. The primary flight feathers of the wing and tail feathers should have a definite wave or wrinkle. ATTENTION: The amount, size, closed curl, curl ringlet, total wing and curl coverage cannot be stressed enough. Remember the breed’s name, FRILLBACK.

 

VARIOUS COLORS

 

WHITE

Pure white, without yellow tinge.

Color faults: Black or bull eyes, not a clear beak color, colored feathers.

 

BLACK

Jet black color with as much beetle green luster as possible over the entire plumage. The major goal is to obtain an even shade over all the body, flights and tail.

Color faults: Grayish brown or dull compared to other black areas, visible bars, wrong eye color, white or light colored beak.

 

RED GRIZZLE

Lacquer bright fiery brick red and strong wherever on the body, a little lighter on the belly, rump and back. The head, neck and wing shield feathers should be red with part of the feather being white, which forms the sprinkling of white or grizzle pattern. Wing bar entirely dark strong red, clearly marked. Primaries and flights, upper and under surface lightly sprinkled with white.

Color faults: Overall light red color without luster, blue feathers or shade in the white feathered areas, dark keel, light beak, too much white on the head, neck or wing shield.

 

YELLOW GRIZZLE

The yellow is exactly the same as the red grizzle. Lacquer bright golden yellow, and strong wherever on the body, a little lighter on the belly, rump and back. The head, neck, and wing shield feathers should be yellow with part of the feather being white, which forms the sprinkling of white or grizzle pattern. Wing bar entirely dark strong yellow, clearly marked. Primaries and flights, upper and under surface lightly sprinkled with white.

Color faults: Overall light yellow color without luster, blue feathers or shade in the white feathered areas, dark keel, light beak, too much white on the head, neck or wing shield.

 

BLUE GRIZZLE

Blue grizzle appears in both light and dark blue. The neck is darker metallic green than the breast and shield. The wing bar is dark gray black to entirely black. The tail and wings are blue, with a darker bar. The tail guard feathers are sprinkled with medium bright blue feathers. The head, neck and wing shield feathers should be blue with part of the feather being white, which forms the sprinkling of white or grizzle pattern. Basic blue shade should be the same wherever on the bird. Flight feathers should not have any white parts. Any red feathers or rust at all on the wing shield or bar should not be present.

Color faults: Too much white on the head, neck or flight feathers, weak shade of blue, and rust or red on the wing shield or bar.

 

SILVER GRIZZLE

Silver (Brown) grizzle appears in both light and dark silver. The neck is darker metallic green than the breast and shield. The wing bar is dark brown or dun color. The tail and wings are silver, with a darker bar. The tail guard feathers are sprinkled with medium bright silver feathers. The head, neck and wing shield feathers should be silver with part of the feather being white or fawn color, which forms the sprinkling of white or grizzle pattern. Basic silver shade should be the same wherever on the bird. Flight feathers should not have any white parts. Any red, rust or blue feathers at all on the wing shield or bar should not be present.

Color faults: Too much white on the head, neck or flight feathers, weak shade of silver, rust, red or blue feathers on the wing shield or bar.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Well I purchased two beautiful pair of blue grz. Frillbacks from a breeder in California. She shows and does quite well. She mailed the birds to me and I have had them for a month or so. They are in the breeding loft that has lights on timers. My race birds are on their second round but the frillback pairs have each layed a single egg. One pair is setting it still and the other pair left it. So my question is, is this normal for frillbacks or do you think it's the change of climate? Or the light system? I'm noy giving up on them yet but just wondered if they are hard to breed and rear?

Thanks

Carol

Posted
Well I purchased two beautiful pair of blue grz. Frillbacks from a breeder in California. She shows and does quite well. She mailed the birds to me and I have had them for a month or so. They are in the breeding loft that has lights on timers. My race birds are on their second round but the frillback pairs have each layed a single egg. One pair is setting it still and the other pair left it. So my question is, is this normal for frillbacks or do you think it's the change of climate? Or the light system? I'm noy giving up on them yet but just wondered if they are hard to breed and rear?

Thanks

Carol

 

The fancier the breed the harder they are to breed and given the slightly nervous/shy/highly strung nature of frill backs I would say that is partly your problem along with the fact they've not had long to settle.I know alot of the fancy breeders don't even attempt to use the birds to raise their own,they foster the eggs out under feeders often racing pigeons,I personally would do that ,good luck :)

Posted

Thanks Chrissy,

I think thats a good idea. After my racers are done with this round I will leave some of the better parents together to foster the Frillback eggs.

Thanks

Carol

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