westy Posted October 27, 2005 Report Posted October 27, 2005 hi can i have any tips on racing pigeons because i am going to start racing next year and i want good advice on racing
jimmy white Posted October 27, 2005 Report Posted October 27, 2005 my advice westy would be to concentrate on breeding a decent team of ybs, then race them, any latebreds this year could be trained with them,and race the following year, the main thing is enjoy them,which im sure you will jimmy
paul k Posted October 27, 2005 Report Posted October 27, 2005 Get your self some reasonible birds. Take your time with them, train them well, pick your races, dont try to send them all everywhere. And make sure they are healthy before you send them, the most common problem is over feeding, but remember a over weight healthy pigeon will get home. An over weight unhealthy one is finished before you even start.
Guest Posted October 27, 2005 Report Posted October 27, 2005 personally i think just concentrate on breeding a good team of y/b and spend a reasonable amount of time on them. DONT OVERFEED. make sure thier flying well and try your best to keep them healthy and see how you go. Definately dont worry on your results for next year if it is your first season just concentrate on gettin them all home and a win or two would be great but you cant expect to start winning straight away but if you be patient with your birds youll start winning. hope this has helped! paul carter
Guest Posted October 27, 2005 Report Posted October 27, 2005 if you need any help in the future westy just pm me with any problems and i will try my best to help you! all the best for next year!!!!! paul carter
Guest WINGS 04 Posted October 27, 2005 Report Posted October 27, 2005 ALL I CAN SAY IS JUST GET THEM FIT AND HEALTHY AND YOU WILL LEARN HOW TO RACE THEM AS YOU GO ALL THE BEST WESTY
westy Posted October 28, 2005 Author Report Posted October 28, 2005 speedbird i dont know what system i am racing witch is best
westy Posted October 28, 2005 Author Report Posted October 28, 2005 yeh jimmy that is what i am going to do is brred my own then race them
speedbird Posted October 28, 2005 Report Posted October 28, 2005 all depends what set you got & how many cocks & hens alot of members only race cocks but i find too many good hens get wasted you could try natural however need plenty of training this way to compete with widowhood men/women unless its distance your interesting in cant beat a sitting hen when it comes down to a channel race
westy Posted October 28, 2005 Author Report Posted October 28, 2005 i think i have more cocks then hens that i know about so far but the res i cant tell yet because they are too young any way i would race my hens next year any way so i am looking forward to racing next year.
speedbird Posted October 30, 2005 Report Posted October 30, 2005 have you got 2 sections nxt to each other? could race roundabout if thats the case if not try natural
westy Posted October 30, 2005 Author Report Posted October 30, 2005 yes 2 sections, what is roundabout please, i know darkness & natural. i think natural
westy Posted November 1, 2005 Author Report Posted November 1, 2005 i have thougth more about it i am going to race the natural system for the first year or 2 then start on a differant system after
speedbird Posted November 3, 2005 Report Posted November 3, 2005 good idea westy however take a look at roundabout as you can race both your cocks & hens this way thing is with natural plenty of basket training is required as widowhood cocks or roundabout birds exercise well round the loft & probably need less basket training all depends how much time you have
westy Posted November 12, 2005 Author Report Posted November 12, 2005 has anyone got any more tips on racing
CREBAG Posted November 16, 2005 Report Posted November 16, 2005 HI WESTY, IF YOU WANT TO RACE YOUR YBS AND WIN WITH THEM LATER ON YOU WILL NEED TO TRY RACING THEM ON DARKNESS, ITS UP TO YOU, TRY SAY 10 ON DARK AND LEAVE THE REST TO HAVE A NATURAL MOULT (NATURAL). IF YOU'D PREFER TO JUST TO RACETHE EARLY RACES, SAY THE 1ST -4TH RACE THEY CAN AND SHOULD STILL WIN THESE, LIKE CARTER SAYS DONT OVER FEED, BUT I THINK THIS ONLY MATTERS WHEN RACING, ONCE WEENED I GIVE MY YBS 1 1/2 OZ PER BIRD PER DAY, THEN SAY 2 WEEKS B4 THE 1ST RACE CUT IT DOWN TO 1 1/4 OZ, THIS WILL GET THE FAT OFF THEM AND GET THEM FLYING BETTER, IF I CAN HELP YOU IN ANY OTHER WAY P.M ME, HOPE THIS HELPS...
westy Posted November 17, 2005 Author Report Posted November 17, 2005 thanks crebag that has helped me abit if i need anymore advice i will pm you thanks all the best martin
jimmy white Posted November 20, 2005 Report Posted November 20, 2005 :) best tip i can give you is,, remember the 3 c,s contentment. condition. and control, if you can get these things linked together, you wont go far wrong, stick in young westy, youll go far :)
westy Posted November 22, 2005 Author Report Posted November 22, 2005 thanks jimmy i will write that down on a pice of paper and i will remember the 3c's contentment condition control thanks jimmy martin
Guest Posted January 16, 2006 Report Posted January 16, 2006 These are tips of fanciers right over the world. Use these tips on your own risk and discretion. If you have any tips that are working for you please share them with the rest of us. Darkness System Try racing on the “Darkness System” with only half your pigeons. As you wean the youngsters place the young hens on the "Darkness System” and the young cocks on natural light providing you have space. The young cocks will only be going through the motions anyway because their future is in the widowhood loft and no doubt you will want to pull the promising ones out. The young hens on the other hand can be pushed and raced hard because only the top ones will be bred from and the remaining hens will be used as widow hens. Young Birds Young birds look sluggish and are not flying. Try adding 50% high quality barley. They will be flying around the loft with endless energy in about a week. Motivation Tips Try the Meat Safe System which was published in the Homing World by Steve Spinks, I have personally tried and have won using this system. follow the link to Boglin Marsh and look for the Novices Social Circle. http://www.boglinmarsh.fsnet.co.uk/ Remove the Cocks you are not sending to the Race Three Days prior to basketing and leave their nest boxes open, the other Cocks destined for the Race will take the spare Boxes as well as there own. On basketing day let the other Cocks back into the widowhood section and basket the Race Cocks before any major fights break out. Use a Pedestal Stand or fold away perch in the Loft for a Week, the dominate Cock will take this perch and defend it vigorously from the others, lock him in his box the morning of basketing making sure he can see the pedestal this will motivate him to return quickly especially if another Cock takes it. The night prior to basketing day put the Cocks on entering from there exercise flight into a different section of the loft feed the Cocks and basket them from this different section. When basketing the Cocks fetch the Hens in a basket into the Cocks compartment let the Cocks see the Hens for a while then basket the Cocks making sure they can see their nest boxes let the Hens fly out freely leaving the Cocks to see what is happening after 10 minutes take the Cocks to the marking station. Try putting a 10 day old youngster in the nest bowl on the morning of basketing, take great care that the Widowhood Cock accepts the youngster, if he does this indicates Super Motivation for not only does he have his box to return to but also a youngster. Try cutting a small hole in the side of some widowhood boxes and putting a mesh screen on one side and a wooden cover on the other side, open the cover on basketing day so both Cocks can see each other this makes both Cocks extremely restless and Motivated. Grit Instead of having grit in the Loft for Widowhood Cocks try making a titbit from 1/2 seed mixture 1/2 grit and 1/2 clay block and feed by giving a pinch in the Widowhood boxes after each feeding Session Three Rings If you are having problems with some birds try using the three ring system, after 1 mistake put a Yellow ring on its leg, after the second mistake another colour, after the third another colour, if it gets to the fourth stage get rid. Rice As soon as your young birds are old enough to be parted try to introduce a little rice into their diet. Rice is not only jam packed with carbohydrates; it is the only grain that has all 8 essential amino acids. Rice also firms up the droppings. Another good tip is in the race season to simmer the rice with a few things added to the water such as protein powder, energy powder, vitamins etc. The rice will absorb all of these to make a great boost to the feed Yogurt To keep a healthy gut flora is vitally important, as we all know. A simple way to help achieve this is once a week; mix a tub of Bio yogurt into the water. It is also a good idea after treatment with antibiotics to use yogurt to get the gut flora back into balance. Sherry If you’ve noticed any of your widowhood cocks burning themselves out in the race basket and falling behind on race days when you know it can do better. Try dampening the cocks’ corn with Sherry. This will make him more relaxed in the basket and also the sugar in the Sherry will give him energy on the day of the race Young Bird Sickness One spoon of Cinnamon mixed with 1/2 a pint of hot water add to water fountain, Birds should be on the mend within 24 hrs Permanganate of Potash (Condy's Crystals) Disinfectant for the loft, make up a strong solution in a watering can and sprinkle over the loft to rid any smells and to disinfect perches. Bath water add a dash to the water this will keep lice down, do not make up to strong as it will burn the birds. Snottily nosed youngster in the loft make up a solution to Bath strength in a container, hold the affected birds head in it for 15 to 20secs do this several times and then put into a dry, draught proof casualty pen. Twice is usually sufficient TIPS . How about racing on the “Dark System” with only half your pigeons. As you wean the youngsters place the young hens on the "Dark System” and the young cocks on natural light. The young cocks will be going through the motions anyway because their future is in the widowhood loft. The young hens can be pushed and raced hard because only the top ones will be bred from and the remaining hens will be used as widow hens. Want a secret ingredient to super feather, unlimited stamina and superb health. Mix flaxseed oil on the grain and add Brewers Yeast, Whey protein and minerals. The flaxseed oil is loaded with Omega 3 essential fatty acids, and must be supplied from the diet. The brewers yeast and Whey adds essential amino acids. Looking for youngsters to grow like weeds with the most amazing feather and muscle. A few times per week feed your breeders grain coated with flaxseed oil and mixed with Whey Protein. Whey Protein is the purest form of protein and comes from yogurt and cheese production. For years the manufacturers tossed it out. Now it is the craze in the athletic world for high performance. Young birds look sluggish and are not flying. Try adding 50% high quality barley. They will be flying around the loft with endless energy in about a week. . Are vitamins and minerals necessary? Soils are depleted of all the minerals, crops are not rotated, grains are harvested too early or too late, long storage, etc. Multivitamins and minerals are a must. Give several times per week. We use our own blend that I formulated and added garlic with extra electrolytes and fruit sugar. . Salmonella is a problem that many pigeons battle. Often when a bird looks tired the salmonella takes off a bit and the pigeon’s immune system knocks it back down. The healthy and less stressed the pigeon the less likely salmonella will be a problem. Here is the tip. Apple Cider Vinegar one ounce to the gallon lowers the pH in the gut, which makes the salmonella, count drop. This vinegar also has many trace minerals in it. Use it during the winter months and two weeks before racing and breeding. Ivermectin the wormer is not effective against roundworms. Ivermectin is a great wormer but use another that will get the roundworms. Once the worms are eliminated the ivermectin may keep them worm free. Ivemectin Sheep Drench 3 cc’s to a gallon in the bath water will kill all parasites, lice, mites, flies, depluming mites etc. Give weekly and the birds will be pest free. It can be used as a spray, 10 cc’s to the gallon on the loft walls and nests to kill parasites and it is not harmful or will give off any fumes. Never get Ivermectin on your skin or it will penetrate into you. If you are spraying it wear protective gear like a mask and space suit. Never inhale mist. We have not used anything but ivermectin for parasites in several years. One bath will totally eliminate the stubborn quill mite. Food for thought. To lengthen a pigeons career racing always give a minimum 5 days rest after every race. Let the bird out to fly but no road work. Your birds will all be very fresh come season’s end. If a pigeon is lost for a long period like a month to a year, treat it like gold. Anyone who has ever had a pigeon live wild and then return usually has a champion on his or her hands. Let the pigeon go through a normal molt before being raced hard and watch the vitality it has and the possessiveness it displays. House attic fans that are thermostatically controlled are a super idea for loft. My fans are set to go on when the under side of the roof reaches 95 degrees. Rabbit pellets can offer the birds the best greens possible in an easy to use form. Try a couple of handfuls per section per week. Your pigeons and your results will be glad you did. Remember that are squab grows so rapidly the first 25 days that one missed feeding will stunt it. Feed the breeders several times per day or place the feed in large feeders. It is so very important that the babies are being pumped at sun up and sun down. Have an old cock that you are afraid he will go sterile soon? Never take him away from a hen. Leave him mated all winter. Being around the hen will help keep his testosterone level a little higher then if he was separated from the hens. A couple more productive years will result. . Do you have an old sterile and nearly crippled cock? Let this old boy live with your widow hens. He will keep the focus of the hens so they will not mate with other hens. He is also too old and blind to pick one hen and start a family. This works! . Widowers look dull and tired? How about giving the hens on Thursday along with nest bowls and nesting material and leaving them with the girls to Monday after the race. Now separate and see how invigorated the cocks are. Adeno virus is a problem in most combines during young birds. When it is first heard that adeno has struck give 1 heaping teaspoon of Aureomycin concentrate to the gallon of water and continue this until adeno has passed. The aureomycin concentrate helps settle the gut and keeps everything in check and the birds will continue to digest their feed and not upchuck. This is a big secret I have used for several years with no problems of adeno in my young bird team. How about giving the young birds pepper leaves from the garden along with basil leaves and garlic chives. They love it and your young birds health will improve. I purchase minced garlic in the jar and liquify it in the blender with a little water. Next I pour it into ice cube trays and throw a cube in each waterer. Take some time and make a big bag of garlic ice. All my waters are 5gallon buckets with the tops cut down and a two inch drill hole punch is used to make three holes. I make a plywood cover with a 2” by 6” fastened on the underside with screws, to keep the top in place. Each waterer is messured to hold slightly more than a gallon. Never use garden lime in the pigeon loft. It is high alkaline and that is exactly what salmonella needs to survive. There are plenty of Belgian loft whites on the market and they are not dusty. Rub them into the wood for a great white finish and nothing sticks to the wood. Grated floors are excellent except during the racing season. All the Belgians removed the grates in their racing lofts after a couple of years. They claimed the birds did not come into proper form. If he Belgians are doing it I am doing it. It is like not taking Michael Jordan’s advice about basketball. If you do have grates place solid floors over them during the race season. Widowhood, double widowhood, widow hens, natural? What is the best? Here is the scoop. There is no better system than straight widowhood racing only cocks. This is the #1 system known and if one comes along that is better for racing old birds I will let everyone know about it. Anyone need some tumblers or rollers? leave them open trap all the time #25. Do birds drink during a long or tough race? In the heat pigeons stop and drink or even land in the water to drink during a race. I would not be surprised if they drink several times during a long day. My cock “Dragon” that won the New England Open 600, in 95 degree heat on the day by a huge margin had sea weed on his band. So do not try to fool yourself. If they are hot and see water they will drink during the race. . Why all the losses during young bird season? The biggest cause is the young birds are not trained young enough. Pigeons learn best when young. A. If you wean in January you better start training those young by old bird season or your losses will be great. B. Light and dark systems push the birds to maturity so they must be trained out to about 35 miles long before the molt is finished. C. Treat for respiratory disease before you start training
robert.sutherland Posted March 23, 2006 Report Posted March 23, 2006 great Some great tips there some that ill be using maybe they will make the difference yours in sport bob
westy Posted March 24, 2006 Author Report Posted March 24, 2006 now that i have my ybs has any one got tips on traing them and racing them.
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