Dr Anderson on Widowhood Racing

December 6, 2007

Dr William Anderson, Armadale, West Lothian was a 3-times SNFC winner who died in 1953 a time 'when his greatest season was expected' according to the Editor of his book "The sport of pigeon racing' first published in 1947. The book is now out of print, but may be available in your local library. [a copy is held by Falkirk Council Libraries].

I had quoted an extract from the section on widowhood, which members found interesting and wanted more. Although it is a really old book, much of what he says is still very fresh, and in my humble opinion, his writings and results obviously show a man far ahead of his times. Read it and see if you agree.

Widowhood

Between the two great wars, from 1918 to 1939, much time and consideration was given to this method of racing, especially in Belgium and Northern France. Of course it had been practised successfully before then, but during these years it became almost an exact science. In my travels, the three greatest exponents of the method whom I was able to study, were Paul Sion, Dr Bricoux and Nestor Tremmery. All these fanciers were convinced of the outstanding advantages of the system and practised it with phenomenal success.

At this stage I would like to warn the fancier who intends trying the system, that he must be prepared to study his pigeons and learn to know them individually. In addition he must be a fancier all through the year, and be able to spend time over the necessary arrangements in feeding, training, etc. Without this he will not make a successful widowhood fancier.

The loft. A special loft must be fitted. For example, a suitable wood or brick building of 12 feet square will comfortably house about 20 cocks. It should be on the second storey, or at least 6 feet off the ground in an open space and should face south–south-east. The front should have two 6 foot x 3 foot glazed entrance doors. The first mention of open door was by H Doll, who states that it was used by Pirlot and Huwart both Verviers, after the death of Alexander Hansenne.

More light is supplied by a large window at the opposite end from the entrance. This should be removable when required and replaced by a lath or wire shutter during warm weather. Ventilation through the roof or high side ventilators is advisable. In warm weather the front entrance doors can be left open and the space filled with two light canvas sliding screens. These are advisable as they prevent the widowhood cocks from seeing other birds exercising and so keep the loft quiet.

Nest boxes. As these are essentially the home of the selected cocks they must be comfortable and well arranged and fitted to standard. They should be built in two sections facing each other, about 10 boxes in each section, ideally each box about 2 feet in length by 1 ½ feet in both breadth and height. The box front should be of 2 equal parts hinged in the middle, so that when one half is open it divides the nest box into two equal parts, one of which is shut for the hen and the other open for the cock. In one corner a small drinking cup is fitted, or this can be fitted to the nest box front.

Perches. There must be no perch of any kind in the widowhood loft.

Feeding. The cocks should only be fed in the boxes after each spell of exercise and after the races; and when feeding it is advisable to start with the larger grains such as beans and peas, and follow with a few tares, and finally a very little selected seed, linseed, canary, hemp or rape. By this method the fancier is able to keep weight on the cocks. This is of prime importance as they are very apt to lose weight and become too fiery and irritable.

Grit. The widowhood cocks should have a supply of sea sand, old lime, red brick dust and minerals. I have found this an ideal combination. Dr Bricoux was a firm believer in giving broken brick dust and Courtrai tile.

Medicines. I have seen all kinds of medical concoctions used for maintaining condition and for increasing speed, etc in this widowhood method and I am honestly of the opinion that pigeons do not require medicines for maintaining a winning sequence either on widowhood or natural racing. I have found benefit from mixing a little cod liver oil over peas or beans and allowing the oil to be absorbed in sunlight before using it as a feed. Olive oil can be used too, although it doesn’t contain the same amount of vitamins. It is easily absorbed though and not liable to cause gastric upset that sometimes happens with cod liver oil. Honey in small quantities can be added to the drinker. Some of my Belgian friends used to add a little garlic to the drinker; personally I have no experience of this and have never tried it out.

Darkness. Darkness is important in the widowhood loft throughout the entire racing season, to keep the cocks rested. The canvas frame over the doors and another over the window is necessary to keep the loft quiet, the cocks being kept in semi-darkness, as required.

Selection of cocks for widowhood. Do not try yearlings. 2-yo and older are best, preferably birds of good physique and fiery temperament and which have flown consistently well as YBs and Yearlings. Remember widowhood will greatly improve an ordinary racing pigeon but it will never make a champion out of an ordinary bird.

At the end of the racing season (the one previous to going on to widowhood) it is an excellent idea to select cocks you intend using the following season. Put the cocks in their new widowhood loft and allot the boxes as you intend having them in later. Allow each pair to hatch one pair of youngsters. This will settle them to their new boxes, and will save many battles and casualties the following season.

Hens. Select hens of 2-yo or older, who have been experienced breeders; the quieter they are the better they will suit. They should be well bred hens which will now be solely reserved for this purpose. I am emphasising this because the youngsters from such birds will often prove of intrinsic value in future years. It is a common fallacy to imagine that any rag-tag of a hen will do for this purpose. It is not so. Experienced widowhood cocks will prove my point. I know of several instances where such cocks will only accept hens of a chosen colour and their own selection, and will not be persuaded under any circumstances to change; and will not allow the fancier to impose his opinion in this matter. The hens must not be raced or trained, as any disaster in racing or training will completely spoil a seasons work for the widowhood cock. When separated, the hens should be as far as possible from the widowhood loft, so that cocks cannot hear them or see them at exercise.

Basketing. Basketing the cocks for training and for race marking. Every fancier abroad who follows the widowhood system conveys the cocks in special single compartment baskets, somewhat similar to our exhibition or show baskets. These are very convenient for the necessary single toss training work and also for race marking and in both cases prevent battles and loss of energy.

Races best suited for widowhood. It is a generally admitted fact that it suits short and middle distances ideally, but personally I have proved its value in the longest and hardest races into Scotland up to Nantes, 608 miles. I might also quote in support of this statement the experience and successes of the great Ostend fancier, Nestor Tremmery, who was very successful as far as Barcelona. With care and good management the widowhood cocks are capable of winning from practically the first to the last race – nothing has been extracted from them in feeding youngsters and this is an important factor in a proper maintenance of condition.

Before discussing finally an exact method for the system there are several small items which might be mentioned. In the racing season the cocks should have at least one special toss each week between races – it must be single up and preferably in the evening (10 – 20 miles is sufficient). When exercising, it is often noticed the birds break up into small batches and usually one flies around like a pouter with a full crop and with a flapping motion. Often he is last to enter the loft and he is the fittest bird on the day.

I repeat that the hens must on every occasion, toss or race, await the arrival of the cocks and must be in the nests. Another item of possible interest is, that after a hard race, the cocks should not be given cold water; a little slightly-warmed milk, or slightly warmed water with a little honey added (or Glucose-D or sugar) should be used. Lastly, all cocks will not conform to the method and will not adapt themselves. If this is moticeable after a trial season do not persevere with them, but replace them and return them to the old natural method of racing as commonly practiced in this country.

Cocks under the system will often last for 4 or 5 years racing and will remain keen and full of energy, and will prove consistent winners over that period. In my opinion, old widowhood cocks do not last so long as stock birds as cock birds raced on the natural system. The widowhood system seems to burn them up more rapidly in a sexual sense, and they are in later years moody, and gradually lose vitality and interest and often stop filling their eggs early.

The following is A detailed system of Widowhood , arranged to suit racing in this country. Many of the points already made will be repeated but will be placed in proper sequence.

At the conclusion of the season’s old bird racing, put the selected number of widowhood cocks in their new loft, and mate them to the special hens which have been reserved for this purpose in the succeeding season. Allow them to settle down in their new quarters and rear or partially rear a youngster. This will help them in future racing, and will later prevent fighting and damage to flights etc.

Leave the pairs together till the moult is well advanced. They should be allowed open door between 9am and 2pm and complete liberty. Many expert fanciers abroad leave the pairs together all winter after removing nest boxes and erecting temporary perches; and they do not separate the sexes till the end of January. Personally, I think in this country better results are likely to be achieved by separation about the beginning of October.

Supposing the first race is 2nd May, we then pair 2nd March to lay around 12th. The birds are allowed to sit pot eggs until eggs are taken away 30th March. They will lay again 10th April. Start training in the ordinary way after the hen lays her 2nd egg and arrange training to suit the 1st race on 2nd May. Take the hens away one week before the 1st race and switch over to the system proper.

Within a few days the cocks will become arrogant and fiery and during the week before the 1st race they should be given 2 x single up tosses in suitable weather at 15 & 30 miles. The hens must be in their boxes to await the cocks’ arrival and they are allowed 5 minutes, but no treading. Note hens must not be trained as any loss will upset the cock’s whole season.

Cocks are exercised daily by themselves, 20 minutes morning and evening, gradually extending to an hour in suitable weather. In wet, foggy or unsuitable days this can be cut back to 15/20 minutes.

The loft should be cleaned during exercise and all drinking water changed. On completion of exercise cocks must be fed in their nest boxes – never on the floor. Start with larger grain first and never use a mixture; a few beans then peas, later tares, every grain being eaten before giving the change, and then rape- or linseed and canary seed till the cocks are satisfied. Remove any grain left at each feed. The cocks must learn that food will only be given during your visit. Do not visit between feeding times and allow no strangers or visitors in during the racing season. Be extremely careful no strange hen enters the loft as she will certainly upset the cocks and may break a winning sequence.

On marking days , exercise morning only. Just before basketing, the hens should be brought to the loft. Try one hen at a time and leave her them for 3/5 minutes, watch them carefully and allow no sexual relations of any kind. Then basket the cock in his single compartment basket. Do this with each individual pair.

On race days the hens must await the arrival of the cocks, and the treatment already described must be carried out, though some experienced fanciers allow the pair to remain together for some hours and treading to take place, it is up to the fancier to decide. The cock should be given only a little maize and some wheat after each race – no heavy grain. The hens will later be returned to their own loft. On the day following the race, allow the cock their weekly bath. The usual exercise and routine feeding will go on during the following week , between races, as described.

I have now covered everything, and it is now up to the individual fancier to follow out the system or to change anything he thinks isn’t needed or can be improved upon. It takes time and patient study but results will be worth the effort. In conclusion, if he doesn’t succeed he should not blame the birds – blame himself for lack of work and understanding, and if the birds are bred from a good stock and are sound, he will eventually be successful.