trapperjoe69

sorry to confuse this issue for you, but i think the only way is widowhood, maybe you should try roundabout for first couple of seasons (to race both hens & cocks) pair up your birds early & rear your young ones and get them clear / weaned away from old ones 2-3 weeks before first race (14 days lay / 19 days hatch / 26 days feeding) i.e. pair up approx 12 weeks before 1st race. simple system overview is - keep cocks in original section, move hens into section next door, train cocks and hens seperate, both always entering into original section, but ushering hens over next door where they stay the majority of the time. they will get themselves into great racing condition being kept seperate, introduce them weekly 15 minutes prior to basketing for motivation.

well i tried it, and unfortuantely for me it didnt work, birds all rung early january they had at least 16 hours a day - light, and are only just through the wing moult, racing season stopped last week, my birds needed to be about 6 weeks quicker moulting. back to darkness next year !!!

hi ronnie - i would be inclined to race them aswell, sure if you get a couple of cracking youngsters you can stock them or maybe even still have their parents after the racing and maybe a few prizes also !

Hi i know racing has just stopped, but already i am thinking & questioning which cock to which hen should i pair together next year ?? any theories or tips on best approach / selection i.e. do i simply pick best racing hen to race racing cock ? maybe relative to size ? maybe colours ? what about eyes ? i have previously paired my best couple up and then let the rest run together, i really want to put a lot of effort into it for next year, any thoughts would be appreciated !!!

hi can you help me create a new thread, i am a bit lost with where to click on to ?

thanks marvin - good info ! when should i expect to get mine through the wing moult completely approx, i hope to concentrate on derbies around late aug / sept

hi - agree about not using antibiotics, but i must point out something that happened to me a few years ago that almost put me out of pigeons - my birds became ill, droppings green, paralysis of legs, wings & torsion of neck & poor balance, young birds started dying, i went to vet and was given an antibiotic, i felt it made them worse dying a lot quicker, after researching internet i realised i had paratyphoid (salmonelois), i moved birds to baytrill, this did the trick and helped birds fight disease, although i made a decision that the birds were already subjected to disease too long so culled. if i ever see these symtoms again - i will aminister baytrill without question i feel a balanced approach is best

thanks chatrace good stuff hi old bird - care to share some of the key information on your rick martis tape - i.e how much light, do you heat loft, do they go through whole wing in time for racing, why do you suggest it is simplier ?

Hi i wonder could anyone help me with something i hope to try ? Lightness system i.e. opposite from darkness whereby pigeons go through body moult but delay wing moult, i want to try lightness to try and accelerate moult on young birds to try and get them through full wing moult before july ! do you think this is possible has anyone tried this when should i pair up (maybe now?) how many hours do i keep light on is there certain feeds would help accelerate moult i would try anything once (i like experimenting to get that extra yard !)

i find hens pair up quite regular, it dose not bother me in winter, just seperate them lock them in boxes for about a week before pairing to cocks. during racing i think it is vital that hens are kept keen for racing & to wind up the widowhood cocks, best kept - individual boxes v perches poles and having a wire or grill floor ps anybody help me _ how do you go about posting new topics ??, i am only new to website

hi my name is joe, i race birds in northern ireland, i just found site & trying to navigate around it, hopefully lots of good information